Alpine Blog

Masses of fresh snow has fallen in the alps over the last few days putting the higher peaks out of condition. However, there is still plenty of cragging to do.

Today (sunday) we have climebed on Bionnassy Crag near Saint Gervais. This is a great venue for those operating above 6B. The weather has begun to to get quite poor in the mountains with lots of snow forecast. However, this should not prove too much of a problem as there are many crags near Saint Gervais Les Bains (were we are based) that stay dry in the rain.

On thursday the 10th September Greg and i climbed the Petit Clocher Du Portalet via the South East arete (ED-, F6B+). This is an amazing rock spire near the Orny hut. The rock is perfect, the route was dry and there is a newly equiped abseil line straight down from the summit back to the bags. As well as the south east arete, there are many other good lines on all the other faces.

Greg and i had a slightly easier day climbing with some friends at La Duchere crag near Les Contamines Montjoie. This is a great gneiss crag with routes upto 5 pitches in length from F2 to F7C+. It was our third rock type in 4 days.

Greg and i have had a great few days climbing in the French Alps.

While the weather was still unsettled we climbed a great F7B at Secteur Des Thermes. All the routes at this Sectuer in the Parc Thermal at Saint Gervais stayed dry in the rain.

On suday the 6th august Greg and i climbed the Aiguille de L’M via the Menegaux route (TD). This gives an excellent crack climb at about E2 5C, AO and is dry at the moment with a minimum amount of snow on the ledges.

On monday the 7th we headed up to the south face of the Midi and climbed Le Contamine (TD+). This gave a very hard crack climb at about E3 6A, A1 but would go completely free at about E4 6A/B. The crux pitch was wet at the exit from the difficult ground which made things interesting.

The Rebuffat route on the South Face can not be started direct at the moment due to the bergshrund but can be started via Le Contamine.

 

More photos can be seen on Greg Boswells site.

Greg and i have returned to the Alps. It was a bit of an epic journey with the car breaking down! A good test for our french.

Wednesday the 2nd we climbed at Secteur Des Thermes at Le Fayet. The weather is a bit wet at the moment so this is great crag to go to as many of the routes are perma-dry. The crag is a 20 minute drive from Chamonix. We will probably head there today also as it is still raining.

Its been a very busy summer begining with 6 weeks of alpine courses for Plas y Brenin. Last week was a Matterhorn traverse in great condition working with Rick Marchant a chamonix based guide. This week kicked off with Mt Blanc for martin moran the clients were already aclimatised and we finished the week with an ascent of pollux and the half breithorn traverse which is excellent.
Conditions are fantastic throughout the alps at the moment with temperatures dropping a little there is lots to go for.

Damien and Greg were tired after all there cycling of the past few days so we headed for a bit of cragging on La Dalle Rouge (6th July). La Berarde is a great venue for single, multi pitch climbing and mountaineering.

Rosie and i went climbing today (4th July) on the Tete de la Draye in Ailefroide where we climbed Pets de Rupricaprins (AD+). This is a lovely little fifteen pitch route with a 30 minute approach.

Afterwards we went swimming in the lake at La Roche De rame. There is an excellent campsite here also. By being based here quick access can be had not only to the granite of Ailefroide but also to limestone crags such as Le Pontiel and Le Fournel.

Greg, Damien and Steve are doing La Marmotte cycle event this weekend so in preparation we have been cycling some of the classic hills such as Alpe D`Huez and Col du Galibier. The weather is very hot and therefore any alpine climbing involving snow requires an early start.

I am aiming to climb on saturday and we all hope to return to the mountains on monday.

Greg and i have travelled down to the Ecrins Massif to meet some friends and do some climbing.  On sunday we climbed a twelve pitch route on Tete Le Maye above La Berarde called Le Maye Dulfer (TD 6B+).   The rock was excellent.

On monday 29th we had a very early start and headed up to the Aiguille Dibona where we climbed the Voie Madier on the South Face (TD) and descnded the Voie Normale (PD).  This gave an excellent climb on perfect granite leading the climber to the summit of one of the most beautiful mountains in the massif.  The Voie Normale still has a lot of neve on it and therfore mountain boots would be useful for the descent.

Today ( tuesday 30th) i am in the Ailefroide area visiting Rosie and some friends.  We have just completed 2 Via Ferratas.  These are great for a rest day, a bad weather option or as a day out in their own right.  The local tourist information office has plenty of information on possible sites.