Four Varied Days

Guy, Joey, Paul and I have had four varied days in the Alps.

On Tuesday we climbed Aiguilles Marbrees  and traversed Le Petit Flambeau from the Rifugio Torino before overnighting at the hut. The snow ridge on Le Petit Flambeau is currently icy and requires screws.

The next day we traversed the Aiguille d’Entreves in good conditions.

Yesterday we visited the beautiful Vanoise National Park and traversed the stunning Aiguille de la Vanoise which includes a very, very narrow rock ridge.

Today we went multi pitch rock climbing at La Duchere. There is some seepage on the crag after last nights rain.

On the amazing Aiguille de la Vanoise.

Matterhorn and Eldorado

John and I have had another busy few days. On Friday we walked to the Hörnli Hut before climbing the Matterhorn yesterday.

Today we visited the Eldorado Domes above Les Contamines. This excellent crag is 5/6 pitches high and rarely visited. Even though it is a Sunday in August, we were the only climbers there.


Yesterday Pamela and I headed up to Kirriemuir to avoid the rain and had a very pleasant day sport climbing.

Old photo of me sport climbing at Kirriehill as I forgot the camera yesterday.

Bishorn and Gran Paradiso

John and I have been out in the Alps together the last few days.

On Sunday we walked to the Tracuit Hut before climbing the Bishorn on Monday. Conditions on the mountain were good. There are two areas of significant crevasses that need to be crossed. Having a good amount of rope out is important.

Yesterday we visited Servoz crag before making the approach to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuel. Today we climbed the Gran Paradiso via the classic route. The snout of the glacier is getting icy as is the area around 3600m. Soon it may be better to go by the variation route described in Martin Moran’s 4000m peaks book.


MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and The Dingle Peninsula

Jen and I are just back from Ireland. Having visited family in Wicklow we headed out to Kerry for a few days and based ourselves in Killarney. On Wednesday we climbed Carrauntoohil in windy conditions from Hags Glen via Brother O’Shea’s Gully and descended via The Zig-Zags.

Helpful signage on Carrauntoohil.

Thursday we drove out to the Dingle Peninsula and after seeing the famous Fungie the Dolphn headed up Cnoc Breanainn (Mount Brandon) from An Baile Breac in wet and cloudy conditions. Friday saw us back in the Dingle area for an afternoon’s sea kayaking with Irish Adventures.

Jen and me in cloud on the summit of Cnoc Breanainn (Mount Brandon).

Saturday we were back in The Reeks with occasional heavy showers and strong winds climbing Cnoc na Peiste from Cronin’s Yard before taking in Maolan Bui and Cnoc an Chuillinn before returning over Maolan Bui and down The Bones. We had superb hospitality throughout and thoroughly enjoyed our time in Ireland.

Arolla and the Dufourspitze

This week I have been out with David, Mirsie, Mark, Micheal and Jack on behalf of Frost Guiding. We climbed the following;

  • Pointe 2940 above the Pas de Chèvre.
  • Le Serpentine (3789m) from the Col de la Serpentine in Scottish winter conditions. We accessed the mountain from the Dix Hut. Th conditions on the glacier were good.
  • Pointe du Pas de Chèvre (2991m).
  • The Dufourspitze (4634m). The conditions were good on the mountain.

Valais and Mont Blanc Massif

I have just spent 6 days with Sam, Richard, Fred and Frost Guiding. Here are the details of what we did;

  • Day one. Ecole de Glacé on Moiry Glacier. Overnight at Moiry Hut.
  • Day two. Pointe de Mourti in good conditions.
  • Day three. Crevasse rescue on the way to the Vignettes Hut.
  • Day four. Traverse of Pigne d’Arolla. There is a 60 metre section of ice that requires ice screw belays on the ascent to the summit.
  • Day five. Ecole d’ escalade near the Orny Hut. Overnight at Trient Hut.
  • Day six. Aiguille du Tour in good conditions.

There are more photos on the Facebook page.



The last week I’ve been delivering a Gold DofE Training for the City of Edinburgh Council, which included a practice expedition in the Atholl area making a circuit of Beinn a’Ghlo. This made for a beautiful circuit with some very remote feeling campsites. The group did a great job including dealing with incessant light rain on Wednesday. The hills are generally still very dry so care is required with stoves if camping.

Remote campsite near Loch Loch.

Binnein Shuas and The Cairngorms

Over the last two days Chris and I have climbed a couple of Scottish Classic Rock routes. On Saturday we walked in to Binnein Shuas and climbed Ardverikie Wall. The route was in perfect condition with all pitches being dry and was a popular choice with five teams climbing the route during the day. Sun cream and hats were essential in the glorious weather.

Chris and me above the corner of Savage Slit.

Today with a forecast for rain showers west of the A9 we headed to Coire an Lochain and climbed Savage Slit. The route was sheltered from the wind and we had a few spots of rain, but nothing which impacted on the climbing. Two great routes in good company.

Six Days in the Alps

Tina, Scott, Steve, Paul and I have just had six excellent days mountaineering in the Alps. We climbed the following;

  • Day one. L’Arete Marion on the Pointes de la Blonniere. A beautiful rock ridge.
  • Day two to five. We visited the Vanoise where we traversed Mont Pelve and climbed Dome des Sonnailles. On the way we overnighted at the Refuge entre Deux Eaux, Refuge Col de la Vanoise and Refuge de la Valette. We received great hospitality at all the huts. The mountains were in good condition.
  • Day six. We climbed Eperon de la Cicle on the Tete de la Cicle above Les Contamines.

Lots more photos on the facebook page.