Monday 31st December

Currently, I have not heard any reports from today. But, just a little note from yesterday.

Tony Stone climbed Babylon on Ben Nevis. He reported that the turf was frozen and the buttresses had a dusting of snow. The routes were beginning to thaw as Tony was leaving the crag. The route’s location provided good viewing of Messrs. Parnell, Robertson and Garthwaite smoothly making the second ascent of The Secret.
Blair Fyffe and Kenny Grant were also out and made the first winter ascent (by a variation) of the summer line Chinook at about VI, 6.
On Saturday, Tony climbed Andromeda in the Northern corries reporting that it felt hard for grade IV.

Sunday 30th December

Adam was again out today and climbed Pot of Gold on The Mess of Pottage.  He reported that the route was in good condition.  Teams were out on Invernookie, Haston Line, Jacobs Ladder and Hidden Chimney.  Teams were also out on the other buttresses.

On the way out, Adam noted that the bottom of the Mess of Pottage was stripped.  He also reported that the Braeriach corries looked in good condition.

Saturday 29th December

Adam was out today and climbed Deep Throat in the Northern Corries.  He reported teams on Invernookie, Y Gully Righthand and Crows Nest Crack.

He also reported that due to the windy conditions, windslab is forming in sheltered locations.

Thursday 27th December

Out for a walk in Glencoe today I popped up onto Gearr Aonach and between showers the views were atmospheric.
Bidean nam Bian from Gearr Aonach
Most of the buttresses were black with snow remaining in some sheltered areas, Broad gully is still complete but the best accumulations are on Bidean in the lost valley.Broad Gully Stob Coire Nan Lochain

Wednesday 19th December

Damien and Niall have climbed Crows Nest Crack today in Coire an Lochain.  This route often holds snow when others are stripped.

They reported that The Colouir is complete and in good condition.  The buttresses were mostly bone dry.  One other team was on Milky Way which Damien reported to be lean but probably climable.

All the turf was bomber so if it snows again conditions should be good.

Tuesday 18th December

Today, Adam and Greg have climbed Grumbling Grooves in Coire an Lochain reporting good neve on the route, and the top section being rimed.  They spotted one other team on Y gully (they did not indicate which version, but i think it would be right hand).

Wednesday 12th December

Damien was once more out in the Northern Corries today with Ian and Sharon.  He climbed Sidewinder which was in winter condition but reports many routes have been stripped.

The turf on Sidewinder was frozen.  Surrounding hills have had massive amounts of snow stripped in the overnight thaw.

Tuesday 11th December

Thanks to Mark for putting yesterdays report on.

Today i headed into the Northern Corries with Damien and Greg. We climbed Sharks Fin Soup on the Mess of Pottage with Damien putting in a great effort on the crux pitch. Conditions were good with all the turf frozen. It was busy with teams on all the buttresses.

Ski touring conditions on the plateau are looking promising if the correct aspect is chosen. Yesterday, Diagonal gully on Stag Rocks was looking good for most of it’s distance. It may have had some windslab at the top of the gully (windslab was present around the top of Afterthought Arete) , and the old snow ice was exposed on the runout.

Loch Avon Basin Monday 10th December

Yesterday Damien, Mark, Euan and The Young Jedi went into the Loch Avon basin to see if any of the turf routes were frozen on Carn Etchachan unfortunately the turf has been covered by a fairly deep level of snow on some aspects insulating the turf.
carn-etchachanshelter-stone.jpg
But all was well and good sport was had by all climbing Afterthought Arete Grade III on Stag Rocks with much hooking and jollification.
euan-on-afterthought-arete.jpg
Conditions on the dark walk out were superb with temps sitting about -1/-2 on the haul out of Coire Raibert with colder temps looking likely towards dawn.

Monday 3rd December

Yesterday Paul climbed Iron Butterfly.  Today Mark and Martin climbed Sidewinder in the Northern Corries and other teams were on Fallout Corner, Savage Slit and Prore.

Damien and i climbed Western Slant.  We found this to be an excellent and varied route.  The first pitch was a traverse on water ice bulges and a mixed chimney.  The second pitch was a turfy traverse.  At this point the route joins Western Route.  The third pitch gave excellent snow ice climbing and Damien lead the fourth pitch which was a mixed corner of about IV 5.

It was whiteout on the plateau today.  It began snowing heavily as we left the Cairngorm car park.