Martin and Nettle went in to Stob Coire nam Beith on Wednesday to have a look at Deep Cut Chimney, which was thinly iced/melting with soft turf so climbed North West Gully by the second pitch of the Direct Start instead (the first pitch not being fully formed). The pitch required care, but was climbable at about IV. The rest of the route provided a very pleasant way up the hill.
On Thursday Martin and Nettle climbed Morwind on Aonach Mor East Face. Easy Gully and the crag apronÃÂ was fairly heavily loaded with moist snow and there were some big cornices. Sun on the rocks was warming in behind the ice/snow in places, but Morwind gave excellent, if delicate, mixed climbing and an easy cornice exit. Two other parties in the Coire, one climbing Left Twin and the other retreating after a pitch of Turf Walk (reporting variable turf). The ski-ing looked good and the ski touring looked excellent.
Mark, Pamela and Martin were out in Stob Coire nan Lochan today climbing SC gully. There was approx 10″ of fresh snowÃÂ on top of firm old snow on theÃÂ route below the first steepening.ÃÂ Once the gully steepened up the fresh snow depth was only a couple of inches and good old snow/snow ice made for pleasant climbing. The cornice exit was easy on firm old snow, but there are sizable cornices overhanging the route from the butresses.
Other parties were out on Dorsal Arete, Twisting Gully and Ordinary Route.
Snow falling on and off all dayÃÂ in the coire. The high winds were northerly, but winds were moving around in the coire and loading slopes other thanÃÂ just the south.ÃÂ A cornice collapse to the north side of the North Butress occured during the day leaving sizable debris. ÃÂ