Glenn & I were out on Beinn Udlaidh today and climbed South Gully of the Black Wall. The first pitch was relatively easy, but quite bold as the ice wasn’t thick enough to take screws and the turf off to the sides wasn’t well frozen. The top pitch was in excellent condition with the ice taking good screws. Other routes getting climbed were Quartzvein Scoop and Peter Pan Direct. Ramshead Gully and West Gully still look broken. The approach was fairly easy as there’s now not much snow on the track or in the coire and a crust is forming on the deeper areas. Temperature below freezing at the top of the crag throughout the day with the bottom probably just getting above freezing. No new snow during the day and a mixture of cloud and blue skies with amazing views to Cruachan.
The road down/up Glen Orchy was the scariest part of the day. It’s sheet ice and needs extreme care at the moment. On our return from the route there was a car on it’s side in the ditch at the bottom of the wee hill after the farm. Take it easy on the side roads folks.
Greg, Adam and Neil were out today in Coire an Lochain (Cairngorms).ÃÂ They climbed Fallout Corner.ÃÂ Greg reports that it was in amazing condition.ÃÂ Check out Gregs blog later on this evening for photos from today.
Pamela was out on An Teallach yesterday.ÃÂ She reports that there was lot of soft dry snow around, ice in places underfoot and some windslab around.ÃÂ It was a lot warmer than the prevoius few days and there was a strong westerly wind.
We walked past the Far East Wall as it didn’t look very white to us, possibly plastered in verglas, but I couldn’t see it – can you?
The Eastern Ramparts had a bit more in the way of aesthetically pleasing whiteness but still not that many justifiable lines to be had, probably Samurai and Shang-High being the best options.
Easy day out for Pamela and myself today in the Wyvis area. Snow was softÃÂ with the snowpackÃÂ now containing a lot of moisture up to a least 800m.ÃÂ There’d been no new snow last night and only occasional light flurries today untilÃÂ weÃÂ were off the hill (3pm).ÃÂ TheÃÂ turf above about 600m was frozen solid where exposed, but soft where burried. Winds in the area have switched from northerly, through south-easterly and back to north-westerlies through the last few days and been fairly light so the snow’s deep in pockets on most aspects. Views to the hills further west looked like the hills over that way are holding a lot of snow. Very jealous of Pamela’s snow shoes today.
Froddo, The Thrutcher and Boy Wonder were out today in the Northern Corries.ÃÂ They had a great day on Central Crack Route.ÃÂ This is a brilliant route with an excellent steep first pitch, an akward wide crack on the second and a sometimes tricky cornice on the third to finish.
They reported that the buttresses were very white and that there is a lot of fresh snow covering the Great Slab.
Pamela & I were out on Beinn Dearg (Ullapool) today. Something of a slog getting in and out with fresh snow between 8″ and waist deep above the treeline. We climbed a possible newÃÂ route starting at a slot/gully about 100m right of Whatawaytospendeaster at about 170m & II/III. It gave a couple of nice pitches followed by some relatively easy grouind to the ridge. Turf was well frozen where exposed, but soft where burried and the ice was variable. A lot of cleaning was required and snow flurries and southerly winds were depositing powder on to north facing slopes. Now relaxing with a great meal and a beer in front of the fire at the Aultguish.
Pamela & I headed over to Creag Dubh on Geal-charn in the Drumochter pass, hoping to find some ice at low level given the weather over the last few days. Ice is forming and Knickerbocker Glory looked climable. We didn’t descend around far enough to look at Swordfish etc. as we felt it wouldn’t be in and chose to climb a possible new line on the buttress up and left of the main crag (where Wafer Me and IceÃÂ Cream are?). The buttress has a large easy angled gully with a cave at it’s bottom at it’sÃÂ left end and we climbed the butress approximately 5m right of this giving and easy stepped turf and ice to the higher of two bent over trees and then a pitch up and right with an ice/rock slab, which was climbed to pass an overhanging triangular nose on it’s left. Hard to grade as it’s short, mostly easy climbing and quite escapable, but with some tricky moves across the slan, we decided a II,4 in the condition we climbed it in, but could be a III with better ice. Turf was frozen where exposed, ice is forming but not fat and there was 4 to 6″ of soft fresh snow. Light flurries of snow during the day on a northerly.
Martin and Pamela have been out today in the Northern Highlands.ÃÂ They climbed a new route on Beinn Dearg.ÃÂ The route is around grade II/III and 200m long.ÃÂ Martin will write a report on his return.ÃÂ
The turf was frozen where exposed but not where it has been insulated by the snow.ÃÂ Ice is forming.ÃÂ Walking conditions were hard as there is masses of snow around.
Photo’s from our ascent of The Migrant yesterday will appear on Greg’s blog, http://gregboswell.blogspot.com/
There has been quite a lot of action around the country today.ÃÂ Firstly in Glencoe Michael Tweedley and Fiona Murray have made an early repeat of Nirvana Wall on Aonach Dubh.ÃÂ Mike reported that the turf was pretty good and the route itself was excellent.
Martin Holland and Pamela Millar climbed a new route on Geal Carn in the Drummochter Pass. No further details, hopefully Martin will post some more later.
Greg and i were out in Coire an Lochain today.ÃÂ We climbed The Migrant.ÃÂ Conditions were excellent, white buttresses and frozen turf.ÃÂ There is large amounts of ice forming around the corrie at the moment.ÃÂ One other team was spotted in and around The Andromeda are.