28th and 29th December The West Coast

I have had an excellent couple of days climbing on the west coast. On monday Greg and i headed into Stob Coire an Lochain (Glencoe). We intended on climbing Central Grooves but the lower section was black! Next, we had a look at Tilt but again the lower section was black. We were third time lucky with Chimney Route which was in condition. This gives an excellent mixed route with moves on ice, snow, rock and turf. Other teams were on Dorsal Arete, the Twisting Gully area and Broad Gully.

On tuesday i headed to Beinn Dorain and climbed Kick Start. This gave an excellent route for a short day as the approach is only about 50 minutes. The route had three good pitches all of which had interesting sections on them. A couple of Warthogs prooved useful. The ice routes False Rumour Gully and Salamander looked in good condition. However, the top section of False Rumour Gully may be filling with wind slab.

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