ClimbNow Blog

Ended up ski-ing at the Cairngorm today, as Graeme, who I’d been due to climb with, had a bit of car trouble. There was a strong Southerly wind (gusting 40mph+), which was transporting a lot of snow and producing large areas of windslab on the firm base. Several sections of the ski-area were closed due to avalanche risk. There were some snow showers during the day, falling as rain/sleet below about 500m. Temperature at the top of the ski-area was well below freezing.

Out with Gary and the Falkirk High Tops Team on Sunday on Geal Charn in the Monadh Liath. The hill lived up to it’s name of the white hill in the grey mountains. There was probably about 10cms of fresh damp snow, which had drifted on a southerly wind to give deep accumulations on any lee slopes. The fresh snow was sitting on top of firm old snow in places. Visibility above 600m was poor and we chose to head up Bruach nam Biodag and out in to the plateau before cutting back towards the summit to avoid being anywhere near the coire rim given the conditions. Craig’s words by text of “enjoy your wade” kept me amused as I counted paces. Winds were light, we had some light snow showers through the day and the temperature was at or just above freezing on the top. A good day despite the weather with the team taking it all in their stride.

The team on the summit of Geal Charn

I was out today with the Glasgow Hillwalking and Mountaineering Club on Ben Ledi looking at winter skills. The team did very well in what were difficult conditions.

There is masses of new, heavy, wet snow on the Northerly aspect we were on with signs of recent avalanche activity. We were on the hill from 10am to 15.30pm. During this time large amounts of rain fell at all levels. The turf was not in good condition for climbing although it may still be ok at higher elevations (yesterday on Meall Nan Tarmachan the turf was in useable condition).

Out with Euan for Adventure Edinburgh today. We took the opportunity to get Calum and Craig climbing their first gully lines on Cam Chreag. We climbed Clark’s Gully and descended the gully right of Carlin’s Buttress with a couple of lowers down the steeper sections.

Calum and Euan climbing a bonus pitch at the top of Clark's Gully

There was a fresh layer of unconsolidated snow on a firmer base, some ice and the turf was suprisingly well frozen at crag height. There was evidence of some avalanche debris from the overnight snow, but the aspect of the crag made a good choice given last night’s wind direction. Generally cloudy at crag height all day, with the temperature hovering just above freezing and some minor snow showers on a light wind.

Craig topping out on Clark's Gully

Beinn an Dothaidh today.

Two of the team in West Gully.

Martin and i were out today with the Falkirk High Tops Team on Beinn an Dothaidh. The gully lines such as East, Central and West are full. Taxus is still complete as is the icefall to the left of Femme Fatale. The buttress routes are mostly not in condition and the majority of the turf is not frozen.

We climbed West Gully. Another climber was seen starting up the mixed ground to the right of Central Gully, continuing up the middle section of Central Gully and finishing via Emmil Ridge (please excuse the spelling if this is incorrect).

Out with a Falkirk team of Gary, Alan, Gillon, Jason and Marion today looking at ropework for winter walkers. We found a good bank of soft snow near the Allt Beul an Sporain to look at bucket seats, buried axes, snow bollards and stompers discussing when they might be used and learning to body belay and abseil without a harness. Above freezing all day (and it looked like the freezing level was above the summits). Incomplete snow cover from the road, higher north and east slopes still appeared to be holding a lot of recent snow when we got glimpses through the cloud. Light southerly winds with very light rain/mist during the day and rain increasing as we drove south.

Out today on A’Bhuidheannach Bheag with Alison, Iain, Andy and Alan on an EICA Ratho Staff Training day. We were looking at avalanche awareness and avoidance plus a bit of boot, axe and crampon work.

The team taking a quick break on Meall a'Chaorainn

There was partial cover of soft recent snow from road level. North and east facing slopes above about 800m were showing full cover with significant areas of unconsolidated slab on hard older snow. South and west slopes were generally well scoured with the exception of shelterd pockets and gully lines. The wind was light and generally from the south-west during the day with no new precipitation, but some wind transport of snow. Below freezing above about 750m.

Large areas of unstable snow have formed in the Northern Corries with spontaneous avalanches witnessed from Aladdins Coulior and reports of avalanches being triggered in Coire an Lochain.

Out on Geal-charn (Drummochter) today doing a Winter Skills course for Paul and Craig.

Craig and Paul on the North-East Ridge of Geal-charn

Broken snow patches, from road level and pretty good snow cover from about 600m. West/south-west aspects and ridges were largely scoured. East/north-east aspects had a good old base layer of snow with a thin layer of fresher unconsolidated snow and some significant looking accumulations above 850m. Freezing level rose above 850m during the day, with the snow pack becoming moist. Turf was generally unfrozen below 850m. South-west winds were light and there was no new snow/rain before late afternoon.