ClimbNow Blog

For the past week I have been on the British Mountain Guides winter test. Here is a report on some of the routes we have climbed and how conditions are.

On sunday and monday we were on our snowholing expedition. Routes climbed by us and other teams included a Central Gully-Central Buttress-Central Gully Left Hand link up, Fiacaill Coulior, The Coulior and the Runnel. Conditions on these routes were excellent.

Tuesday we headed to Ben Nevis. Andy T and I climbed Compression Cracks. The lower icefall was in excellent condition. The upper section was in poor condition and unless it has improved recently can not be recommended.

Back to the Cairngorms on wednesday. Routes climbed included Seamstress and Appetite for Destruction. These routes were in ok condition but now are black.

On thursday and friday routes climbed by the candidates include Tower Ridge and Green Gully on the Ben in good conditions, and Iron Butterfly, Grooved Rib, Sidewinder,Aladdins Mirror Direct, Ewen Buttress and Hidden Chimney in the Cairngorms in good conditions.

Up on Ben Nevis with John and a Falkirk Team of Gary, Graeme, Ian, Linda, Nigel and Pamela for the last three days. On Monday we walked in and one party climbed Central Gully Creag Coire na Ciste on good stepped ice, one party climbed Central Gully Right Hand on good thick ice and one pair climbed Number Three Gully. All descended Number Four Gully, which has a good slot through the cornice.

Ian and Linda above the steep ground on Central Gully

On Tuesday two parties climbed Glover’s Chimney, which was in excellent condition with good ice on the first pitch and great mixed climbing to Tower Gap, from where they finished up the ridge. The other pair climbed Green Gully reporting good ice.

Graeme and Nigel in the top pitch of Glover's Chimney

Short day today, so one party climbed the first two pitches of Italian Climb before abseiling off; the ice being climbable, but not taking worthwhile screws. Another pair climbed Garadh Gully, which currently requires some care with bergschrunds and holes where snow bridges have collapsed. The third party went for a wander up in to Observatory Gully to familiarise themselves for future visits.

Glover's Chimney/Raeburn's Wall area on Tuesday evening (it looks pretty similar today)

Fairly warm today after an overnight frost with the lower routes suffering a little. Above the level of the top of Garadh Gully the snow was much firmer and the snow and ice seemed to be holding up well. No significant precipitation over the last three days, winds have generally been south-westerly and no obvious large avalanche activity since the warm period last week.