ClimbNow Blog

Gayle below Mackay's Gully (leftward slanting ramp) and Clark's Gully (narrow ribbon of snow).

Alasdair and Gayle on the second belay of Clark's Gully.

I have been out today with the Falkirk High Tops Team. Gayle, Alasdair and I climbed together and John, Linda and Tom climbed together. Both teams climed Mackay’s Gully and Clark’s Gully on good snow ice and some frozen turf.

The buttress routes on this crag are currently in good condition. However, it is worth noting that for all routes on this crag (including the gullies) a good number of Warthogs should be carried.

Windslab is currently building in the gullies and at the top of the crag and requires care.

Up in the Menteith Hills near Aberfoyle on Wednesday running a navigation course for Ross and Nathan from Falkirk. Access to these hills from Braeval is via forestry tracks and there are currently a lot of trees down across the tracks following the high winds in December. The wind damage would currently make sections of the Rob Roy way problematic to walk or bike with detours or climbing over trees required.

No snow at summit height, circa 400m, but views north showed snow patches from about 600m on higher hills. Fresh westerly wind and rain showers during the day.

The summit of Meall Nan Tarmachan.

Bomber Harris leading Easy Gully on Cam Chreag.

I have been back up today at Cam Chreag with the EICA Ratho staff team. The conditions on the crag are still pretty good. Everything is well rimed, the turf is frozen and the snow is still firm. Today, we visited the summit of Meall Nan Tarmachan in addition to climbing on Cam Chreag to give us an opportunity to practice navigation skills.

Out with Nic, Euan, Pamela, Davy and Fran on an EICA Ratho Staff Training day today looking at short roping and general winter mountaineering. We visited Cam Chreag, a south/south east facing crag underneath the summit of Meall Garbh. The major gully lines and crag apron contained firm neve and the turf was very well frozen.

Davy Virdee near the bottom of McKay's Gully

McKay’s Gully was climbed on a mixture of snow and frozen turf. The right hand branch of Easy Gully was climbed and the left hand branch of Easy Gully was descended on good snow. Below freezing at crag height all day, light SW breeze and cloud cover for most of the day, but no precipitation.

Just time for a quick route or two this morning before departing for the airport, so Euan, Graham, Ivor and I headed to the Krokan Area, which has a quick approach.

Ivor with the large icefall behind him being Bullen

We climbed Kjokkentrappa, which was in good condition, and Euan rounded off the trip with a good lead of Lucky Lisa.

Euan leading Lucky Lisa M8

Jomfrua was also being climbed and looked very stepped out. Lots of other routes across the grades were in condition, although some were a little lean and possibly hard for the grade.

Euan topping out on Lucky Lisa

Unknown climber on Jomfrua

Graham and Euan seconding Gaustatoppfossen Midtre (Photo by Ivor McCourt).

The approach to Gaustatoppfossene (Photo by Ivor McCourt).

The recent strong winds of the last few days subsided last night allowing us to visit the Gaustatoppfossene. There is currently a reasonable track into the crag. We didnt have snow shoes but still made the approach in under one hour.

The crag is in excellent condition. As well as the routes indicated in the guidebook there appears to be at least another five lines in good condition from WI3 to WI5 for those who would like to do some exploring.

Martin leading Weeping Wall.

Graham and Ivor climbing Lettvann (Martin Holland collection).

Martin leading Tracey's Eyes.

Euan leading Blindtarmen before the retreat (Martin Holland Collection).

Today, we have visited the Upper Gorge and Vermock Bridge areas of Rjukan. Martin and I began the day by attempting Blindtarmen. We managed one and a half pitches, but unfortunately then had to retreat due to deteriorating ice conditions (both quality and quantity). We then headed further down the gorge and climbed Tracy’s Eyes. The climbing conditions on this route were pretty good. The photo above shows Martin just before the crux which is a hidden groove above Martins left shoulder.

As a third route of the day we moved closer to the Vermock Bridge and climbed Weeping Wall. This route is not in the Rockfax guidebook. It is a right facing corner 80 metres right of Vermokbrufoss Vest. The route is one pitch long and graded WI4.

Graham and Ivor climbed Lettvann reporting good conditions on the route with good screw belay’s.

Euan climbing Julevask at Ozzimosis (Photo by Ivor McCourt).

Last night, warm air moved into the Rjukan area bringing heavy rain overnight with strong winds. The heavy rain stopped mid morning so we had a long lie and leisurely breakfast.

When the weather brightend early afternoon we headed to the Ozzimosis area to climb a few pitches. As a team we climbed; Minidisken, Julevask, Juledusj and two variations of Skrueis. All routes were in good enough condition to takes ice screws.

Ivor underneath the steep section of Svaddefossen.

Today we went to the Svadde Area to investigate the conditions. Ivor and I climbed Svaddefossen. The conditions on the route were very variable and the route is currently tough for the suggested guidebook grade. Also, the route is significantly longer than the suggested three pitches.

Martin and Graham climbed Topp Pa Toppen. They climbed to the top pillar which is currently out of condition. Escape from the route was serious involving a long horizontal traverse on poor ice and two abseils.

Euan leading Fyrstikka at Krokan (Photo by Ivor McCourt).

Martin, Graham, Ivor and I are currently out climbing in Rjukan. As a team we led De Kaller Meg Fjard, Bullen by two different routes, Gaustaspokelse, Fyrstikka and Jomfrua. Conditions on all these routes are good. The harder of these routes have not seen much,if any, traffic.

Martin and Ivor also bottom roped Topp which is currently delicate for the first 8 metres.