Balgone Heughs

On a recommendation Euan, Ivor and I went to try out a recently bolted crag near North Berwick Law this morning. There are currently about twelve lines in the 5+ to 7b grades. I had to leave at noon, by which time we’d climbed between us Pheasant Corner, The Wasp, The Wanderer and Heuthanasia. All of these gave good, well bolted and technical climbing. There is some friable rock and it’s worth thinking about where you belay from and/or wearing a helmet. I’d guess this will clean up with traffic although the grades may take a while to settle down.

Euan leading Heuthanasia

Euan leading Heuthanasia

The crag faces North-West and is probably better as a summer evening venue or when North Berwick Law get’s too hot, it does happen. Despite some overnight rain and being in the trees the rock was surprisingly dry with only the lines of Ivy Wall, The Curling Pond and Mr Fox suffering from seepage; these were drying quickly whilst we were there.

Euan becoming The Wanderer

Euan becoming The Wanderer

There’s information about the crag and routes on UKClimbing. The information asks climbers to park at The Law car park to keep the good will of the land owner, additionally some of the lines are closed projects and both of these things should be respected. It’s a twenty minute walk from the car park and the walk was a little muddy after the rain. Thanks to the folk who’ve put in the time and effort to bolt these lines, it’s a good addition to the area.