Boomerang and Broad

Boomerang and Broad Gullies in Stob Coire nan Lochan today. Both routes were in good condition.

Currently there are lots of routes to do up to grade IV in good condition in SCNL.

Starting up Boomerang Gully.

Beinn Dorain

Today I have been out on the flank of Beinn Dorain. Here we climbed some mountaineering terrain at around grade I/II focusing on skills such as short roping, snow anchors and transitions between techniques.

The surface of the snow was firm. This is however a surface layer with soft snow present 6 inches down. Therefore, the correct snow anchor has to be chosen. The turf was frozen and there was some ice surviving. The crags of Coire an Dothaidh are not in condition.

On the flank of Beinn Dorain.

Pink Rib and Stob Ban

This week I am out with a team from Ballachulish looking at the skills required for guiding one climber on grade 2 winter routes. Yesterday, we visited the Pink Rib in Glencoe to look at short roping skills, the construction of belays and stance management. Today we put these skills into practice on the East Ridge of Stob Ban.

The East Ridge was in good condition with a good quantity of snow on it. The firmness of the snow improved with height. The turf was frozen.

Climbing into the sun on the East Ridge of Stob Ban.

Creag Coire an Dothaidh

Today we visited Creag Coire an Dothaidh and climbed Martins route ‘Quick fire’ along with another ice route further right. Ice is building well in this coire and a good number of the mixed routes are in excellent condition.

There are lots more photos on the facebook page.

An icy bulge on Quick fire.

Quickfire marked in red.

Gearr Aonach, Lurchers and Ciste

This week I am based at Ballachulish. On Sunday the lads and I climbed Zig Zags before traversing Gearr Aonach and dropping back into the Glen via SCNL. The route was in good condition. Rapid transportation of snow was taking place with large areas of windslab and cornices quickly building.

We have been over in the Cairngorms for the last two days. Yesterday we visited the Southern Sector of Lurchers Crag. After descending South Gully we climbed Pinnacle Ridge. The mixed routes were in good condition being scoured and the turf well frozen.

Today, the ski road was not open. Therefore, we walked from the snowgate to Ciste Crag where we climbed a route at about III 5. A number of teams appeared behind us later in the day and enjoyed a number of different  lines on the crag. The turf was frozen and after last nights weather the crag was holding a good quantity of snow.

Ski Touring in the Drummochter Pass

The Falkirk High Tops Team and I have been out today ski touring in the Drummochter Pass. We completed The Boar of Badenoch and A’Mharconaich.

We had a thirty minute ski carry to where we started skinning and a twenty five minute carry out. The rest of the time we had skis on our feet. There was excellent snow above 500 metres for downhill skiing on south, south east and easterly aspects.

Significant redistribution of snow was taking place.

Above the clouds.

Off piste and Ski touring in Sestriere

I have just completed an excellent weeks off piste skiing and ski touring with a great team and www.infinitymountainguides.com in Sestriere. The ski area is linked to many other resorts and gives many options for off piste skiing to suit all abilities and ski tours from short outings to long days. Please get in touch if interested in visiting this less well known part of the Alps in 2019.

There are more photos on the facebook page.

On the summit of the Pitre d’Aigle. Our first top of the week.

Wednesday to Friday

Following on from our days in Glencoe and on Beinn an Dothaidh, the team and I visited Coire an Dothaidh and Col 744m. Here we had a productive day developing winter skills and ice axe arrest drills. The turf was not frozen at this altitude and the crags were black.

During the fine weather of Thursday and Friday we visited the Kinbreak bothy and made an ascent of Sgurr Mhurlogain. Visitng this beautiful, quiet part of the Highlands gave us great opportunities to practice winter navigation and  revisit all the skills we had been practising during the week.

More photos can be seen on the facebook page.

Glencoe and Bridge of Orchy

Practising crampon skills.

For the past two days I have been out with a team from Ballachulish. Yesterday we were out in Glencoe and today we were on the flank of Beinn an Dothaidh. The focus of the two days has been on avalanche avoidance, avalanche rescue techniques and winter skills.

Large amounts of snow remain. The gully lines are still full on Beinn an Dothaidh with snow on the ledges. However the turf at 650 metres was not frozen and therefore may not be frozen on the routes.

Ski Touring in the Pentland Hills

Ski Touring in the Pentland Hills today above Flotterstone. Variable conditions but great to be out on such a beautiful day.

Skinning up Turnhouse Hill.