ClimbNow Blog
Our Blog is written by Euan Whittaker and Paul Warnock with contributions from Wilf (Martin) Holland and Tony Stone. Click on their names to find out a bit more about them.
Throughout the Summer of 2011 Paul will be Guiding in the Alps and Euan will be completing his Alpine Guides' apprenticeship.
Watch this space for route reports & photos.
18/02/12 Ben Ledi
Out with Lorna, Arlene, Rachel, Lisa-Jane, Sabine and Neil from the Glasgow Hillwalking and Mountaineering Club today doing a Winter Skills course.
We headed in to the north-east coire of Ben Ledi and were rewarded with plenty of old snow and neve to practice on. There was a dusting of fresh snow from overnight and there was a graupel shower as we headed up in the morning.
The coire was relaively sheltered from the west/north-west winds, but did catch some strong gusts; these usually accompanying the snow showers, which passed through throughout the day. Pockets of wind slab were developing in sheltered locations and cross loading was occuring. The wind slab was showing easy shears, but wasn’t deep enough in the coire to be of concern today. Freezing down to road level by the time we returned to the cars.
16/2/12 Stag Rocks. Y Gully and Diagonal Gully.
I have been out in the Cairngorms today with Brian, Linda, Tam, Graham and John from the Falkirk High Tops Team. We headed over to Stag Rocks and descended Y Gully before climbing back out via Diagonal Gully.
Conditions in the Cairngorms are currently very very lean. The turf was not frozen at any level today.
15/02/12 Meall nan Tarmachan
Out with Tony, Steve, Curt & Bob from Falkirk today on Meall nan Tarmachan doing a Winter Navigation course. Patches of old snow from about 650m on north through east to south facing aspects.
The major gully lines on Cam Chreag were still just about complete. The snow pack was saturated at all heights and some patches of ice were still present. Above freezing all day with no precipitaion during the day and the strong wind varying from west through to north.
6 to 8/2/12 Cairngorm and Ben Nevis
Out in the Cairngorms and Ben Nevis over the last four days. Earlier in the week the southerly and south-westerly winds were loading the lee slopes with wind slab and building cornices and avalanche activity was observed on Creagan Cha-no (above Strath Nethy) on Monday and Number 3 Gully on Ben Nevis on Tuesday. Green Gully, Wendigo, Central Right Hand, White Line, Glover’s Chimney and Number 2 Gully Buttress were all climbed on Tuesday, but conditions will have changed considerably since then.
There was a big thaw in the Cairngorms overnight Wednesday and through Thursday with buttresses largely stripping back to bare rock and even some of the thicker ice turning very soggy.
4/2/12 Newtyle plus more Route Major Photos
I was out with John and Paul, Graham and Doug from the Falkirk Team today. After a false start involving deciding not to leave the mini-bus where we may not have been able to get it out later in the day due to steadily falling snow we were left with limited time, so chose to head to Newtyle. It was a first time dry tooling for the guys and they all seemed to have fun and technique improved massively through the day and will transfer well to future mixed climbing.
Sleet/snow throughout the day at Birnham and the ground remained largely frozen.
Unfortunately, I forgot the camera today, but can’t resist putting up a few more photos from yesterday on Route Major.
3/2/12 Route Major, Carn Etchachan
Today was a beautiful day in the Cairngorms. Ian, Sharon, Steve, Martin and I went over to Carn Etchachan and climbed Route Major. The approach was fairly quick due to the ground and Loch Avon being frozen.
The route itself, was in excellent condition. We chatted to another team who climbed Scorpion and Pamela and Nic climbed Deep Cut Chimney on Hells Lum.
During the day I could hear large bangs. I think it was ice falling off Stag Rocks but could not be sure of the exact location.
2/2/12 Emel Ridge, Beinn An Dothaidh
I have been out today with the EICA Ratho staff team on Beinn an Dothaidh. We climbed Emel Ridge which was in excellent condition. All the buttresses are currently white and some ice is begining to form.
The exits of the gully lines are currently heavily loaded with windslab.
01/02/12 The Trossachs
I have been out in the Trossachs today. The turf was frozen from around 400m upwards. There is still a good covering of snow on the peaks. With the current weather, the mixed routes on Cam Chreag may be in good condition. Just remember those Warthogs!
30/1/12 and 31/1/12 Ben an Dothaidh and Stob Ban/Devil’s Ridge
The last two days Euan and I have been out with Linda, Gayle, Graham and Tom from the Falkirk High Tops Team. On Monday we visited Ben an Dothaidh and climbed Stairway to Heaven.
The route was in excellent condition with turf well frozen and some ice forming. No snow during the day, but wind transportation of snow on a fresh southerly with areas of wind slab forming in West and Central Gullies.
Today we climbed the East Ridge of Stob Ban in the Mamores, which gave a very good route to the main ridge of Stob Ban. We then went over the summit of Stob Ban and dropped down past Lochan Coire nam Miseach before traversing The Devil’s Ridge and Sgurr a’Mhaim.
This gave an excellent mountaineering horseshoe of Coire Mhusgain with plenty of interest and stunning views.
Turf well frozen above 200m, easy walk ins with limited snow cover below 600m. A few snow flurries during the day with, again, wind transport of snow on a southerly wind leading to areas of winslab forming on lee slopes.
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