Glen Coe

Euan and I were out today with a Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors Winter Mountaineering Team of Alan, Lewis and May. The programmed route was Dinnertime Buttress, as it can be done as a summer or winter scramble. This was definitely a good option early in the season as today it was a sheltered summer scramble with only the very odd patch of snow high up.

Euan, Lewis and Alan on an optional pitch near the top of Aonach Dubh.

The thaw earlier in the week has significantly reduced the snow cover in Glen Coe and views into Stob Coire nan Lochan showed only Broad Gully looking complete at the moment. The turf was firm near the top of Aonach Dubh. There was only light precipitation on a southerly wind whilst we were on the hill, but it was raining hard at road level as we drove south. This will have been falling as snow high up.

Drumochter

Pamela hasn’t been out winter climbing for over 3 years, so the aim of today was a nice, fun and relaxed reintroduction. We decided on Coire Creagach, a minor crag near Drumochter developed by Davy Virdee and pals. Additionally, we didn’t top out in order to stay in the shelter of the coire and below the very cold south-east wind.

Pamela approaching a belay.

A pleasant day was had climbing Easy Gully and a steep icy step on it’s side wall; Gully II and Lost Chock Groove descending each time via Easy Gully. The ground was frozen from the road with ice in any boggy sections. Some good ice was developing on the crag. The snow level in the coire started on the slope below the crag, circa 850m. The snow was all very solid refrozen old snow. The snow forecast tomorrow will load in to the coire on top of this layer and is likely to represent an avalanche risk. There are already big cornices above north and east facing slopes, this is worth bearing in mind if there’s a thaw or additional loading. There was existing avalanche debris in the coire from cornice collapse earlier in the week.

Braeriach

Euan and I were out personal climbing yesterday. This gave the chance for something a bit unusual. Knowing we’d have to go high to get crags looking properly white we decided on the high and remote Coire Brochain on Braeriach, a good four hour walk in. The crag was very white, however the snow was only partially consolidated. After four somewhat harrowing pitches on snow covered granite slabs and grooves on an alternative line on Domed Ridge we chose to escape in to Campion Gully and descend. Both the original line on Domed Ridge and the line to the left we climbed would definitely be much better with good neve/ice on the slabby sections. On the day what gear was found was usually after a lot of clearing and many of the cracks were blind.

Euan carefully leading the lower granite slabs on semi consolidated snow.

In the early morning there was a dusting of snow and frozen ground at the Sugar Bowl car park. Most of the day freezing levels were above the summit and snow had disappeared below 850m by the time we walked out, unless it was old patches in collection features. Lurcher’s crag was looking fairly black on the rocky lines when we passed through in the morning. There was a good depth of snow in Coire Brochain and the odd glimpse through the mist showed large cornices have already developed above the coire.

Cairngorm Winter Skills

Robin and I were out in the Cairngorms today delivering a Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors Winter Skills Course for Donald, Emma, Maria and Sheena. We had an excellent day despite slightly thawing conditions with lots of skills being learnt or refreshed. There weren’t any ice patches at the elevations we reached, but we did find firm old snow  for crampon work.

Sheena finishing and ice axe arrest with skiers below in the Ciste Gully.

Starting from the Ciste car park we used snow in and around the Ciste Gully from an altitude of about 700m to 950m. There were firm old snow patches in collection features, with some areas of newer wind blown snow on top. All the snow we were on had moisture in it and will consolidate well with a freeze. The snow started to firm up considerably above 900m. Turf was not frozen at the heights we reached and streams were running under the snow. Good awareness and route choice is required if you’re heading across stream lines. There was no significant precipitation whilst we were out and the strong west to north-westerly winds eased during the day.

 

Glen Lyon

Pamela and I were out for a dander on the south side of Glen Lyon yesterday. We headed up Beinn nan Oighreag from the east crossing the north ridge of Beinn nan Eachan and the Lairig Breisleich, which wasn’t as bad a “villainous bog” as advertised. This route kept us out of the worst of the wind until the summit ridge of Beinn nan Oighreag. We then descended its north-east ridge and made a couple of stream crossings to regain the road. It’s worth noting there is now a bridge just below the junction of the Allt Baile a’Mhuilinn and the Allt Breisleich.

Crossing a snow patch near the summit of Beinn nan Oighreag with the Lawers range behind.

It was above freezing all day with rain showers in the morning and gusts of 50mph+ on the summit. There were snow patches above 850m, particularly on north-east aspects, and some remaining ice patches above about 800m.

 

The Lowther Hills

The days I’ve had pencilled in for possible early winter climbing don’t seem to be lining up with conditions at the moment, so I’m trying to take opportunities to keep hill fit wherever I can.

The summit of Louise Wood Law.

Today I broke a dreich journey back up from Derbyshire by stopping at Elvanfoot and walking/running around some of the eastern Lowther Hills. The route took in Louise Wood Law, White Law, Dun Law and Glen Ea’s Hill. There was a scattering of snow above 600m although this may disappear tomorrow.

Manor Valley

At this time of year when it’s very windy in the higher hills or it’s not been cold enough for winter routes it’s always good to get out for something a bit random to keep hill fitness up. After a couple of days this week where I’ve ended up at the climbing wall it was great to get out with Nettle today as he’s usually up for the more esoteric option. We headed out fell running around some of the hills above the Manor Valley near Peebles today as a way of keeping under the worst of the wind. It also worked well as the weather was coming across the higher hills before it reached us, taking out some of the sleet showers.

Me and Nettle in the wind on top of Notman Law.

Our route took in Notman Law, Greenside Law, Deer Law, Conscleuch Head, Black Law and Black Cleuch Hill. The going was on tussocky grass, heather and bog and was often trackless, making for a good work out. We also managed to find a bit of scrambling/bouldering, which provided amusement given the conditions. Rain/sleet showers on and off with a dusting of snow settling above about 650m and winds of circa 40mph+ on the tops.

The Cairngorms

Matt and I had an excellent day in The Cairngorms today. We made for the east facing Creagan Cha-no as the cold winds had been blowing on to the crag for the last few days. Exposed turf was frozen, but snow covered turf was still soft and route and placement choice required some care.

Matt nearing the top of the Right-Hand Finish of Anvil Gully.

After abseiling to check the turf we climbed Anvil Gully with Matt lowering down and climbing the Right Hand Finish as well. We then descended Recovery Gully before climbing Kerplunk with a couple of variations on to rock including the gully slot and steep leftwards pull on Fast and Furry-ous. To finish we nipped back down and climbed a quick Grade II line just left of Quiet Corner.

Matt on the walk in at about 850m. Snow continued to build all day on this NW aspect.

East faces were generally scoured and rimed with developing accumulations of snow on west and north-west aspects particularly above about 800m.

RCI Assessment

RCI assessment last couple of days. It was a bit damp at Blackford and Rosyth!

Loch Goil

With very strong easterly winds forecast at height today B and I headed west of Lochgoilhead to take in some lower hills. We visited Stob na Boine Druim-fhinn, Beinn Tharsuinn, Beinn an Lochain and it’s East Top. This avoided the worst of the precipitation and we only had a couple of showers although it was pretty windy even on these 2000ft hills.

B hanging on at the summit of Stob na Boine Druim-fhinn.

There was a covering of snow above about 800m visible on the hills further east and north; as we drove back through Arrochar Beinn Ime and The Cobbler had a good dusting high up.