A Report from the East and West

I have been out the mountains the last three days. On Tuesday Laura, Euan and I visited Cha-no in the Cairngorms. Conditions were excellent on Anvil Gully and Short Ridge. Some windslab was building in Recovery Gully.

We visited Lurchers Crag on Wednesday. The top of South Gully looked fairly loaded on one side we abseiled into Quinn and climbed back out. The conditions were not as good as on Cha-no. The turf was perfect on Cha-no but suspect on Lurchers.

Laura and Euan at the top of Lurchers.

Laura and Euan at the top of Lurchers.

Today the Falkirk High Tops Team and I were at the Cobbler where we climbed Chockstone Gully and Great Gully. Conditions on Chockstone Gully were Good. Great Gully is currently much harder than the guidebook grade.

The turf on the Cobbler is not frozen apart from where exposed to the wind.

Paul climbing in Great Gully.

Paul climbing in Great Gully.

Lots more photos on the facebook page.

Glencoe and Lochaber

This week I am based in Glencoe and will be travelling to Lochaber and the Arrochar Alps as well as climbing in the Glen.

On Monday with my team, I completed the Zig Zags before returning to the West Face of Aonach Mor on Tuesday to repeat Western Rib which I climbed last Friday. The turf has become much more frozen since Friday. The route has large quantities of snow on it creating interesting snow aretes.

Today with the lads I visited Stob Coire Nan Lochan where we climbed Dorsal Arete. The route is very, very white as are all the other buttresses. Hard mixed routes will currently be time consuming.

There is currently large amounts of powder snow in the West Highlands which would be great for skiing.

Aaron and Ratty climbing on Western Rib.

Aaron and Ratty climbing on Western Rib.

 

 

Beinn Narnain and A’Chrois

I was out today in the Arrochar Alps with a Falkirk Community Trust High Tops Team of Billy, Claire and Imran. Starting from Succoth in fog we climbed up Beinn Narnain and through the cloud in to sunshine and a beautiful cloud inversion, which lasted most of the day.

Ben Lomond above a sea of cloud.

Ben Lomond above a sea of cloud.

After the steep ascent of Beinn Narnain we headed out over Creag Tharsuinn and up to the top of A’Chrois. We descended the South ridge of A’Chrois, which is rough and pathless in places before returning to Succoth.

Billy and Imran on Beinn Narnain with the Luss Hills behind.

Billy and Imran on Beinn Narnain with the Luss Hills behind.

Once above the clouds we were in glorious sunshine all day with only the odd light breeze. Suncream, sunhats, shades and plenty of liquid was the order of the day.

Imran, Claire and Billy on the summit of A'Chrois with Beinn Narnain behind.

Imran, Claire and Billy on the summit of A’Chrois with Beinn Narnain behind.

 

Traverse of The Cobbler

Yesterday, I was out on The Cobbler in the Arrochar Alps with the Falkirk High Tops Team. We completed the traverse of the South Peak and the Centre Peak which gives some nice moderate rock climbing and one abseil.

The abseil tat at the top of the South Peak had vanished so I replaced it. Hopefully it will remain where it is!

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Return to The Cobbler

Percy leading Great Gully.

Percy leading Great Gully.

I returned to The Cobbler today with a team to look at a number of skills including; short roping, approaching routes and guiding in series. We climbed Chockstone Gully and Great Gully.

Chockstone Gully was in good condition. However, a large area of windslab was building at the exit which will require care. This has occurred due to cross loading due in the current wind direction.

Great Gully was in good condition.

The routes we climbed did not rely on frozen turf. Any turf we came upon did not appear to be frozen.

Climbing on The Cobbler

Graham at the foot of Great Gully as Tam begins the squeeze underneath the giant chockstone.

Graham at the foot of Great Gully as Tam begins the squeeze underneath the giant chockstone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The forecast today was for very wild weather in the West Highlands. Despite this, The Falkirk High Tops Team (Graham, Tam, John, Gayle and Iona) and I had a great day out on The Cobbler in the Arrochar Alps.

We chose this venue for two reasons. Firstly, the mountain is a bit lower and receives less snow than other areas such as Glencoe. Secondly, as many of the routes face south the forecast wind should have scoured the face to leave good conditions.

Our plan paid off. We first climbed Chockstone Gully. There is some soft slab gathering in the initial pitches due to cross loading but we managed to avoid moving on this. The wall that is used to pass underneath the giant chockstone had good snow on it.

The slope between the top of Chockstone Gully and the base of Great Gully which was our second route of the day had been blasted by the wind leaving only old hard snow on it. Great Gully was in excellent condition with good hard snow, useful neve on the crux bulge and frozen turf at the exit.

There was areas of windslab forming on similar aspects to that suggested by the Glencoe avalanche forecast and also on southerly aspects due to cross loading.

Tam exiting Chockstone Gully. The giant chockstone which forms the arch is just behind.

Tam exiting Chockstone Gully. The giant chockstone which forms the arch is just behind.

 

The Cobbler Traverse

The Falkirk High Tops Team and I were out today in the Arrochar Alps near Loch Lomond. We climbed the South East Ridge of the South Summit of The Cobbler (Moderate) before abseiling to the col after a very brief stop on top. Some of the team continued to the Central Summit while others returned to the valley.

It is worth noting that all the abseil tat required to descend from the South Summit in anything but perfect conditions has vanished! We have put a new length of 10 mm rope through the thread anchor which will hopefully remain in place.

The weather was very challenging today but all members of the team did a great job in the conditions.

Part way up the South East Ridge of The Cobbler.

Part way up the South East Ridge of The Cobbler.