Valais and Mont Blanc Massif

I have just spent 6 days with Sam, Richard, Fred and Frost Guiding. Here are the details of what we did;

  • Day one. Ecole de Glacé on Moiry Glacier. Overnight at Moiry Hut.
  • Day two. Pointe de Mourti in good conditions.
  • Day three. Crevasse rescue on the way to the Vignettes Hut.
  • Day four. Traverse of Pigne d’Arolla. There is a 60 metre section of ice that requires ice screw belays on the ascent to the summit.
  • Day five. Ecole d’ escalade near the Orny Hut. Overnight at Trient Hut.
  • Day six. Aiguille du Tour in good conditions.

There are more photos on the Facebook page.

 

Summits with Chris and Frost Guiding

Chris Rigg and I have been out this week with www.frostguiding.co.uk.

We met on Saturday and after walking to the Orny Hut climbed Bon Accueil on the Aiguille de la Cabane (2999m). This route climbs superb rock and by using a couple of points of aid can be climbed at Very Severe.

After staying at the hut we climbed the North West Arete of the Tete Blanche (including the final tower) and the Petite Fourche (3520m). By climbing the final tower rather than avoiding it by loose ground on the right the route warrants solid PD+.

We descended back into Switzerland via the abseil from the col near Petite Fourche. It is suggested in the guidebooks this can be completed on a 60m rope. This is incorrect. Two ropes are required.

During Mondays bad weather Chris and I travelled to Hotel Flualp. Yesterday, we climbed Rimpfishhorn (4199m) which was in Scottish winter condition following the poor weather the day before. Great preparation for when the snows arrive in Scotland in November (hopefully!).

More photos on the facebook page.

Great rock on the Aiguille de la Cabanne.

Great rock on the Aiguille de la Cabanne.

Mountaineering with Adam, Greg and Frost Guiding

It has been another productive week in the Alps. This week I was out with Adam and Greg on behalf of www.frostguiding.co.uk.

We began our week with a Ecole de Glace session on the Ferpecle Glacier before going to the Cabane Bertol on Monday and climbing the Clocher de Bertol. The next day we made the ascent of the Tete Blanche (3710m) which was in good condition.

The weather was poor on Wednesday but we still managed to climb the excellent Arete Sud at Bramois before the rain began. In the afternoon we completed the Via Ferrata at Nax.

On Thursday we made the ascent to the Cabane d’Orny before climbing the Aiguille de la Cabane (2999m) via the Voie Bon Accueil. This gave an excellent rock route on perfect granite.

Yesterday morning we climbed the Aiguille du Tour (3540m) before descending to the valley. The mountain was in good condition.

On the ascent of Tete Blanche with the Matterhorn behind.

On the ascent of Tete Blanche with the Matterhorn behind.