Captain Fairweather

The weather forecast was better today for the east coast. Therefore we headed for the Cairngorms. Here we visited Creagan Coire Cha-no.

Due to the rise in temperatures overnight most of the crag is now out of winter condition. However, Captain Fairweather was still completely white so we climbed this. The snow on the route was moist but the turf was still well frozen.

Much of the snow on the approach to the route was frozen and crampons were required for the descent back to the car.


The top ramp on Captain Fairweather.

Creagan Coire Cha-no

Euan, Ivor, Nettle and I were out climbing in the Cairngorms today. We visited Creagan Coire Cha-no. The buttresses weren’t rimed, so the steeper rocky lines weren’t justifiable today. However, the turf was well frozen, old neve was very solid and there was snow on the easier angled lines.

Euan on the first pitch of Captain Fairweather.

Euan on the first pitch of Captain Fairweather.

We had a very pleasant day climbing a number of routes and getting to know some bits of the crag we hadn’t visited before. Euan and I started with Captain Fairweather, whilst Nettle and Ivor climbed Plasma Gully with a possible new steep finish on it’s left. Nettle and Ivor then climbed Captain Fairweather, whilst Euan and I checked out the North end of the crag and climbed a possible new line up the gully immediately left of Once Were Alpinists and finished with a quick solo of Wide Gully.

Euan leading the gully line of Beth's Escape just left of Once Were Alpinists.

Euan leading the gully line of Beth’s Escape just left of Once Were Alpinists.

It was well below freezing at the crag all day, with clear skies until late in the afternoon. Southerly / South-westerly winds were very light early on, but increased during the day with some transport of soft snow on to the sheltered areas of the crag rim e.g. the top of Wide Gully. Unfortunately, it looks like freezing levels are heading above the summits during the day tomorrow. Euan has put some more photos from today on the Climbnow Facebook page and Nettle has put some on the Routes Mountain Sport Facebook page.

Euan soloing Wide Gully.

Euan soloing Wide Gully.