David and I climbed on Creag Coire an Dothaidh today near Bridge of Orchy. It’s low altitude and aspect meant that it wasn’t too buried after the recent snow falls, although there is plenty of snow on the crag. The turf was very well frozen, even where buried. Ice is building, but currently isn’t great for climbing.
We climbed Centigrade and Quick Fire. Both required a careful approach in their current conditions. The later isn’t in the guidebook, but was a new route from 2015. There was very little new snow during the day and winds were generally light. It’s worth noting that Creag an Socach on the other side of the coire was much blacker.
John and I were out with a Falkirk Community Trust climbing team of Doug, Graham and Tam today. We were looking for a scoured crag, given all the new snow, and headed to Creag Coire an Dothaidh. Creag an Socach actually looked more scoured, but with the turf feeling variable on the walk in we headed for the less turf dependent lines on Creag Coire an Dothaidh. Big thanks to the soloist and the team of walkers heading for Beinn Dorain who put a trail in for us.
John, Doug and Tam climbed Salamander Gully, which they described as “climbable, but with the ice thin in places”. Graham and I climbed Centigrade, which had some thick ice, but required a delicate approach on some sections where the ice was good, but not extensive. Graham and I then nipped round and climbed a line between Centigrade and the col, which started just left of a steep 5m wall and followed a gully/groove line through a couple of narrow sections on good featured ice at about tech III . I’ve vague memories of a line being recorded in one of the SMC Journals here, but now can’t find it. Anyway it gave a good quick second route for the day.
A lot of soft fresh snow around in sheltered locations. Turf frozen where exposed, but soft where insulated. Ice around on the crag, but not extensive. The crag was well rimed, but was loosing some of this during the day. Above freezing level at crag height most of the day after an overnight frost and temperature rising as we left with rain showers starting to move in.
The Falkrik High Tops Team and I visited Coire an Dothaidh yesterday. Nigel, Jacqueline and I climbed Cenitgrade on Creag Coire an Dothaidh. There was plenty of ice on the route but it was very variable. It will not take ice screws. A team backed off Farenheit 451 due to the quality of the ice.
John, Neil and Niall climbed Kick Start on Creag an Socach reporting good conditions.
It was a very beautiful day with sunshine all day and only light winds. Following a pleasent walk out we stopped off at the friendly Bridge of Orchy Hotel before driving back home.