Creag na h-Eighe

Yesterday I was working for Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors at Creagh na h-Eighe north of Dunkeld. David and Devon were looking at learning to lead outdoors. They’re both interested in mountain routes, so we also used the route Jugs to look at multi-pitch stances and rope management.

Devon topping out on Jugs, whilst leading it with a “ghost rope” from above.

It was dry at the crag although hot and muggy with the odd midge under the trees. We narrowly avoided some heavy showers, which were very localised.

Loch Ordie Crag

Pamela and I had a very pleasant day climbing at Loch Ordie Crag north of Dunkeld today. The routes probably don’t see much traffic, so some care is required with the odd loose block and vegetation, but there are some very nice lines in a beautiful setting.

Pamela setting off up New Order.

The pick of the routes we climbed were “New Order”, which was very good for the grade, and “Ordie Crack”. It’s worth climbing the lower wall of Ordie Crack from the left to avoid some possible loose rock above the lower thin cracks before reaching the main straight crack. We also climbed a possible new line left of Leo.

Bennybeg, Muiravonside and Perthshire

On Thursday and Friday I completed working on the Antonine Primary School Activity Week for Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors. I visited Bennybeg with David and a climbing/abseiling group and helped set up for their overnight camp at Muiravonside before delivering orienteering sessions on Friday.

Jen looking at some of the work of the beavers near Mill Dam.

Yesterday Jen and I visited the Dunkeld area watching the ospreys at The Loch of The Lowes and walking north of Dunkeld to see signs of the extensive beaver activity in the area.

Newtyle

Driving conditions to suitable winter climbing venues meant a change of plan for the Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors Introduction to Winter Climbing Course today. Catrin, Liam, Paul and I headed to Newtyle Quarry near Dunkeld. Once there we climbed a number of dry tooling routes including Groovilicious and Bonzai. These gave a chance to look at footwork, tool placements and movement, which will all help when Scottish mixed climbing.

Paul belaying, Catrin on Groovilicious and Liam on Bonzai.

We also covered abseiling including stacked abs, gear placement and removal and some general mountaineering skills. Not a usual winter intro day, but actually covering lots of the skills required. It snowed on and off at Newtyle during the day on a westerly and there was more snow with temperatures falling as we drove back.

Creag na h-Eighe

Pamela and I had a very pleasant day climbing in the sunshine at Creag na h-Eighe, North of Dunkeld, today. After the weekend’s rain we were looking for somewhere that would dry fast and this worked out well.

Pamela leading Sarah’s Route.

 

CPD and Rock Climbing at Dunkeld

Yesterday I attended a British Mountain Guides CPD day. The day was based at Bendrigg Trust near Kendal and focused on placing bolts and assessing the strength of existing bolts. It was a very useful day with lots of interesting material.

Today I have been climbing in the sun with Gayle at Dunkeld. Even with the forecast air temperature of 9 degrees the crag was lovely and warm. We climbed 10 pitches at the Polney Main Crag, Ivy Buttress and Upper Buttress areas.

The crag was mostly dry with only small areas of seepage around some cracks.

The second pitch of Ivy Crack. Missed out by most climbers who abseil of the tree part way up the route.

The second pitch of Ivy Crack. Missed out by most climbers who abseil of the tree part way up the route.

 

Polney Crag, Dunkeld

 

Paul ( of Moet Hennessey / Glenmorangie ) high off the ground at Polney Crag.

Paul ( of Moet Hennessey / Glenmorangie ) high off the ground at Polney Crag.

Paul and I have had a good day out today at Polney Crag near Dunkeld.  We climbed; Twisted Rib, Bollard Buttress, Cuticle Crack (in two pitches) and Kestrel Crack. The weather was once again excellent, the crag is very dry at the moment and there were only a few midges around. There were no other climbers at the crag.

Paul ( of Moet Hennessey / Glenmorangie ) on the first pitch of Cuticle Crack.

Paul ( of Moet Hennessey / Glenmorangie ) on the first pitch of Cuticle Crack.

ML Practice in the Drummochter Pass and on Dunkeld Crag

Steve and I have been out today looking at the Summer Mountain Leader syllabus. We began the day in the Drummochter Pass ascending A’Bhuidheanach before practising micro navigation skills. Following this we visited Polney Crag at Dunkeld on the way home. We spent time here looking at the ‘security on steep ground’ section of the syllabus. Large sections of the crag were dry and a good number of climbers were out.

Steve on the summit of A'Bhuidheanach.

Steve on the summit of A’Bhuidheanach.