Euan, Ivor and I visited Glen Croe in Arrochar today for some rock climbing. There’d been some rain last night and so some of the easier to protect lines such as Student’s Route and Lady Madonna were suffering from seepage. We also got a few unforecast hail and light rain showers, so not ideal for climbing on mica schist. However, we had a good day leading Good Day Sunshine; Dear Prudence (a good lead of this bold line by Euan in a hail shower); Student’s Route; me backing off a wet Lady Madonna and working Pockets of Excellence.
It doesn’t look like the crag is seeing large amounts of traffic, so lichen is an issue on some lines and cracks may require cleaning to place protection. Still good to be out climbing on rock.
B, Robin and I went for an exploratory trip up the North-East ridge of Beinn Ime today, as none of us had climbed the ridge before. This felt like a good option for conditions as it’s described as both a summer scramble and a winter route. Today it was a summer scramble.
An approach from Glen Croe via the Bealach a’Mhaim worked well for us, but did involve some steep traversing and avalanche risk would need to be considered if there was snow around. We soloed the lower section of the ridge avoiding the damp rocky sections, which would be fun in dry conditions. After roping up the final tower was climbed it in two pitches. The turf firmed up near the top of the ridge and there was some old thawing ice. We continued up to the summit of Beinn Ime. Above 900m the ground was hard frozen, the verglas and rime covered rocks were very slippy and there was plenty of ice on the paths. Very limited snow patches in the area, but I was definitely glad to have crampons on for the initial part of the descent.
Euan and I were out in Arrochar with a Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors scrambling team of Ali, Kostas, Louise, May and Steve. We traversed The Cobbler starting from Loch Long and taking in the South Peak via it’s South-East Ridge and an abseil to descend before climbing the Central Peak via Doorway Route. Euan then returned to Loch Long to fetch the mini bus, whilst the rest of us headed down to Glen Croe.
It was raining and windy this morning with the mica-schist on the route requiring care in the wet. It cheered up as we summited and was dry for most of the walk out. The ground is saturated at the moment and any crags with seepage will take a while to dry.