Glen Orchy

A late change of plan meant I was out on my own today. I decided on a couple of hills I’d not visited before and the opportunity to check out a small crag shown on the map I hadn’t heard anything about. Starting from the Eas Urcaidh car park I went up Beinn Mhic Mhonaidh traversing around after the forestry to cross it’s east ridge in order to take in the north-east coire, Garbh Choirean. To my surprise I found enough old snow and thin ice in the coire to climb a short, but good, gully just to the right of the coire’s central rib.

Looking down the gully climbed on hard neve, thin ice on rocks and well frozen turf.

After heading up to the summit I went on to the south-east top before retracing my steps a little and dropping down to the watershed before nipping up Beinn Donachain. I descended via Cruach nan Nighean and pt. 563m to reach the forestry track at Lochan Coire Thoraidh. A pleasant descent on tracks, part of which was through some delightful old forest, brought me back to the start. A dry morning was followed by an afternoon of heavy showers on strong easterly winds. These fell as snow above about 500m, but was only settling above 700m. The turf was firm above 700m and some ice was forming above 700m. Older snow in significant collection features was good neve. Higher hills in the area had good snow cover above 750m although crags looked fairly black. See the ClimbNow Facebook page for more hill/crag photos.

White Caterpillar Direct

The team and I have been out at Beinn Udlaidh today where we climbed White Caterpillar Direct. As well as climbing the route described in the guidebook we climbed a direct start via a nice blue ice bulge.

The route was in good condition but the cornice is worth mentioning. To finish the route I made a thirty metre traverse with no protection to find an easy way through. I then redirected the ropes above the lads who climbed over the cornice directly. It was overhanging and more than one body length.

The corie was busy with many of the classics getting climbed.

Snow being transported behind the lads in the strong winds.

Beinn Udlaidh

Nettle and I were looking for a quick climb before the forecast wind and rain arrived today, so we headed to Beinn Udlaidh. This worked really well and despite the thawing conditions we climbed Tinkerbell and Doctor’s Dilema and descended Central Gully.

Leading the lower pillar of Tinkerbell

Leading the lower pillar of Tinkerbell. Photo Credit: J.Foden

Nettle with Central Gully and Doctor's Dilema visible behind

Nettle with Central Gully and Doctor’s Dilema visible behind

Nettle took a very steep variation up an icey groove to the right on the second pitch of Doctor’s Dilema, which bumped the route up to what felt like a good, hard, fun Tech 5. I’m not sure if I’ve used a kneebar on Scottish ice before.

Nettle heading towards the steep groove

Nettle heading towards the steep groove

The routes in the coire to the left of Central Gully generally had large impending cornices over them and there were several sloughs as the day went on.

Cornices over the routes on the East of the coire

Cornices over the routes on the East of the coire. Photo Credit: J. Foden

The freezing level was well above the summit during the day and routes were dripping heavily and softening up. The forecast is for rain and the freezing level to go above the summits for some time, so the routes on Udlaidh are likely to suffer badly.

Making new friends on the walk out

Making new friends on the walk out. Photo Credit: J.Foden