Aonach Eagach and Ski Touring in the Cairngorms

Jon, Mikey and I have been out over the last couple of days. On Sunday we visited Glencoe and traversed the Aonach Eagach. We wore crampons for the whole ridge. Some sections are dry but not enough to warrant taking crampons off.

Yesterday we visited the Cairngorms and traversed Cairn Lochain and Cairn Gorm via Lurchers Gully, a descent into Coire Domhain and a final descent of the pistes. We wore skis for the whole journey excluding two minutes on the approach to Lurchers Gully and one minute on around Point 1083m.

More photos on the facebook page.

4 Routes in Glencoe

Levin and I have been out in Glencoe for the last two days. Yesterday we climbed Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower on Buachaille Etive Mor. The route was in excellent condition. We descended via a snow bollard into Coire na Tulaich.

Today we climbed Dinnertime Buttress on Aonach Dubh, Dorsal Arete in SCNL and descended Broad Gully in SCNL. Dinnertime Buttress didn’t require crampons until beyond the crux chimney. Dorsal Arete was in the best condition I have ever seen it in. Broad Gully was descended on good snow (although there was some shallow windslab).

Lots more photos on the facebook page.

Exiting Dorsal Arete.

Pearly Gates and Oganach Chimney

Yesterday a team and I from Ballachulish climbed Pearly Gates in Stob Coire nan Lochan. We climbed the route on good snow ice.

Today, we climbed Oganach Chimney which is on the north side of Am Bodach (the start of the Aonach Eagach). This route was first climbed in December 2017 by Andy Nelson and Andy Hogarth. It gave a nice grade III in the current conditions. The turf was frozen today however the snow was not. It was very, very wet. The route will be excellent once it freezes again.

These two routes have two things in common; very few runners and few belays. If you find a good one, take it!

Climbing on Pearly Gates.

Learn to Lead on Ice

The lads and I visited Stob Coire nam Beith today. We found some shelter from the ferocious winds and the team did a great job leading a four pitch ice route near An t Sron at about grade III.

There are lots of single and multi pitch ice routes currently present in the coire that are not in the guidebook. These provide great opportunities for learning to lead without the commitment of being on a big route.

Climbing ice in Stob Coire nam Beith.

 

Around about Langsam

Today I have been in Stob Coire nan Lochan with a team from Ballachulish. There is still a good number of routes in condition and today the coire was quiet.

We climbed a line in the area around Langsam. The line we climbed was about IV 4 in standard. The ice was good for the axes but not for screws.

Looking up the ice pitch we climbed.

Boomerang and Broad

Boomerang and Broad Gullies in Stob Coire nan Lochan today. Both routes were in good condition.

Currently there are lots of routes to do up to grade IV in good condition in SCNL.

Starting up Boomerang Gully.

Pink Rib and Stob Ban

This week I am out with a team from Ballachulish looking at the skills required for guiding one climber on grade 2 winter routes. Yesterday, we visited the Pink Rib in Glencoe to look at short roping skills, the construction of belays and stance management. Today we put these skills into practice on the East Ridge of Stob Ban.

The East Ridge was in good condition with a good quantity of snow on it. The firmness of the snow improved with height. The turf was frozen.

Climbing into the sun on the East Ridge of Stob Ban.

Gearr Aonach, Lurchers and Ciste

This week I am based at Ballachulish. On Sunday the lads and I climbed Zig Zags before traversing Gearr Aonach and dropping back into the Glen via SCNL. The route was in good condition. Rapid transportation of snow was taking place with large areas of windslab and cornices quickly building.

We have been over in the Cairngorms for the last two days. Yesterday we visited the Southern Sector of Lurchers Crag. After descending South Gully we climbed Pinnacle Ridge. The mixed routes were in good condition being scoured and the turf well frozen.

Today, the ski road was not open. Therefore, we walked from the snowgate to Ciste Crag where we climbed a route at about III 5. A number of teams appeared behind us later in the day and enjoyed a number of different  lines on the crag. The turf was frozen and after last nights weather the crag was holding a good quantity of snow.

Glencoe and Bridge of Orchy

Practising crampon skills.

For the past two days I have been out with a team from Ballachulish. Yesterday we were out in Glencoe and today we were on the flank of Beinn an Dothaidh. The focus of the two days has been on avalanche avoidance, avalanche rescue techniques and winter skills.

Large amounts of snow remain. The gully lines are still full on Beinn an Dothaidh with snow on the ledges. However the turf at 650 metres was not frozen and therefore may not be frozen on the routes.

Eastern Slant, Glencoe

Eastern Slant today in Glencoe with the Falkirk High Tops Team. This lovely route is located on the East Face of Aonach Dubh.

Conditions were deteriorating throughout the day and we are now in need of a refreeze.

The team at the top of Eastern Slant.