Boomerang and Broad Gullies in Stob Coire nan Lochan today. Both routes were in good condition.
Currently there are lots of routes to do up to grade IV in good condition in SCNL.
This week I am out with a team from Ballachulish looking at the skills required for guiding one climber on grade 2 winter routes. Yesterday, we visited the Pink Rib in Glencoe to look at short roping skills, the construction of belays and stance management. Today we put these skills into practice on the East Ridge of Stob Ban.
The East Ridge was in good condition with a good quantity of snow on it. The firmness of the snow improved with height. The turf was frozen.
This week I am based at Ballachulish. On Sunday the lads and I climbed Zig Zags before traversing Gearr Aonach and dropping back into the Glen via SCNL. The route was in good condition. Rapid transportation of snow was taking place with large areas of windslab and cornices quickly building.
We have been over in the Cairngorms for the last two days. Yesterday we visited the Southern Sector of Lurchers Crag. After descending South Gully we climbed Pinnacle Ridge. The mixed routes were in good condition being scoured and the turf well frozen.
Today, the ski road was not open. Therefore, we walked from the snowgate to Ciste Crag where we climbed a route at about III 5. A number of teams appeared behind us later in the day and enjoyed a number of different lines on the crag. The turf was frozen and after last nights weather the crag was holding a good quantity of snow.
For the past two days I have been out with a team from Ballachulish. Yesterday we were out in Glencoe and today we were on the flank of Beinn an Dothaidh. The focus of the two days has been on avalanche avoidance, avalanche rescue techniques and winter skills.
Large amounts of snow remain. The gully lines are still full on Beinn an Dothaidh with snow on the ledges. However the turf at 650 metres was not frozen and therefore may not be frozen on the routes.
Eastern Slant today in Glencoe with the Falkirk High Tops Team. This lovely route is located on the East Face of Aonach Dubh.
Conditions were deteriorating throughout the day and we are now in need of a refreeze.
Over the last three days with the Falkirk Outdoors staff team I have been to; Benny Beg, Blackford Quarry and Beinn a’Chrulaiste via the Pink Rib. We spent time looking at the SPA, ML and MIA syllabuses. It is essential that once qualified instructors remain current hence days out like these.
For the last couple of days I have been guiding and instructing on behalf of www.highmountainguides.com. The aim of the two days was preparation for climbing the Matterhorn.
Alongside Mountain Guides Alan Kimber and Jonathon Preston, the team and I visited Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe on Friday. Here we climbed Curved Ridge before descending the route of ascent. This is great practice for the Matterhorn as the only way off the summit is to climb down the route of ascent!
Yesterday we visited Ben Nevis were we climbed up Castle Ridge and down Ledge Route. Ledge Route finishes at the bottom of Number 5 Gully and here we used an axe.
Today we visited Buachaille Etive Mor. It was another stunning day in Glencoe.
The snow was mostly soft at all altitudes with the odd patch of firmer neve.
It was a glorious day again today in Glencoe. I was out with a new team from Ballachulish looking at winter skills such as ice axe arrest.
The highest altitude we reached was 750 metres. The snow was soft at this elevation.