Lost Valley Minor, Glencoe

John, Martin and I were out climbing today in the Lost Valley Minor Buttress, Glencoe.

On the approach the ground was hard frozen and there was lots of ice around. When we reached the buttress large amounts of ice could be seen raising hopes of good conditions. This turned out to be a bit of an illusion as when we started up Right Edge route we discovered the turf on the first pitch was unfrozen. Conditions on the second and third pitch were better but still not good.

I would not recommend climbing on the crag currently although it is very white. Reports from SCNL were also of poorly frozen turf.

Martin leading the third pitch.

Martin leading the third pitch.

Lost Valley Minor Buttress

Today we visited Lost Valley Minor Buttress in Glencoe. The approach to the buttress and all the normal walking routes in this area require good crampon technique at the moment. The snowpack is frozen solid and any slip or trip would have serious consequences.

Two teams including mine climbed Chimney Route. The route had lots of useful ice and screws are helpful. The route is currently climbing at IV 5. Right Edge was also climbed and reported to be in excellent condition with lots of great ice on it.

Ben Wallace leading on Chimney Route.

Ben Wallace leading on Chimney Route.