Local Hills, Bouldering and Climbing

Over the last week we’ve managed some good local hill walking, bouldering and climbing culminating in a visit to North Berwick Law today. The crag was busy, for North Berwick Law, but everyone was friendly and sensible given the current situation.

Euan leading Law of Gravity. Photo credit: I. McCourt.
Euan higher on Law of Gravity. Photo credit: I. McCourt.
The view from Hound Point bouldering.
Dramatic skies over the Forth Valley.

Sma’Glen and Balgone Heughs

I’ve been climbing with Euan the past two days. On Wednesday we were at Newton Spur in the beautiful Sma’Glen in Perthshire. We climbed six good routes on the Flat Line Wall, the pick of which was probably “Ouzels of Fun” before soloing the two rightmost lines on The Sentinel. See the Facebook page for a photo of me on The Sentinel.

Euan below Statement of Heuth.

Today we were sport climbing at Balgone Heughs south of North Berwick Law. The crag faces north-west and is in trees, so can prove a good choice in dry hot conditions.

The Law and Robs Reed

Yesterday, Ivor, martin and I visited North Berwick Law and today we visited Rob’s Reed. Despite last weeks heavy rain both venues are still dry with very, very few routes seeping.

Both venues are easily doable in a day from Edinburgh and provide good climbing. North Berwick Law is easier for the tall while Rob’s Reed suits all heights.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

North Berwick Law

Ivor and I were out at North Berwick Law yesterday afternoon. There was a cool breeze moving North to North-East, but the crag was sheltered, dry and warm in the sun. We climbed a number of lines with the pick of the day being Old Law Breaker.

Me happy after red pointing Old Law Breaker. Photo Credit: Ivor McCourt.

Me happy after red pointing Old Law Breaker. Photo Credit: Ivor McCourt.

Balgone Heughs

On a recommendation Euan, Ivor and I went to try out a recently bolted crag near North Berwick Law this morning. There are currently about twelve lines in the 5+ to 7b grades. I had to leave at noon, by which time we’d climbed between us Pheasant Corner, The Wasp, The Wanderer and Heuthanasia. All of these gave good, well bolted and technical climbing. There is some friable rock and it’s worth thinking about where you belay from and/or wearing a helmet. I’d guess this will clean up with traffic although the grades may take a while to settle down.

Euan leading Heuthanasia

Euan leading Heuthanasia

The crag faces North-West and is probably better as a summer evening venue or when North Berwick Law get’s too hot, it does happen. Despite some overnight rain and being in the trees the rock was surprisingly dry with only the lines of Ivy Wall, The Curling Pond and Mr Fox suffering from seepage; these were drying quickly whilst we were there.

Euan becoming The Wanderer

Euan becoming The Wanderer

There’s information about the crag and routes on UKClimbing. The information asks climbers to park at The Law car park to keep the good will of the land owner, additionally some of the lines are closed projects and both of these things should be respected. It’s a twenty minute walk from the car park and the walk was a little muddy after the rain. Thanks to the folk who’ve put in the time and effort to bolt these lines, it’s a good addition to the area.

North Berwick Law

A day of sunshine in East Lothian meant Ivor and I headed out to North Berwick Law for some sport climbing. Ivor has a project here, which he’s very close to getting clean, and I tried a couple of things I hadn’t done before as well as the usual warm ups.

Ivor just about to strip Necktie, having rethreaded

Ivor just about to strip Necktie, having rethreaded

One of the routes I tried today is the un-named route left of Necktie, which the 7a Max guidebook suggests is 6a. The climbing is quite good, but it’s a bushwhack to get to and the moves to the first bolt felt considerably harder than 6a, unless I was missing something. We ended up improvising a clipstick to clip the first bolt as the prospect of falling onto a gorse and dog rose covered ledge wasn’t too appealing. Nice climbing, but it might be worth coming in from above to allow clipping the first bolt or taking secateurs and a clipstick if you’re going to give this one a try.

North Berwick Law

Back sport climbing again with Ivor today. We headed down to North Berwick Law to work on a route that’s a bit of a project. The sun was out and the crag was fairly well sheltered from the fresh breeze, which made for good climbing conditons.

Ivor working the moves on a top rope on a previous visit

Ivor working the moves on a top rope on a previous visit

Additionally, we found a gillet hanging in the bush at the crag, it looks like a climbers and probably one who’s spent time in Canada. If it’s yours email with a description an I’ll try and get it back to you.

North Berwick Law

Yesterday, Graham, Martin, Bomber, Ivor I had a day out climbing at North Berwick Law. The weather forecast was for 8 degrees, windy and showers. This venue is a great location in cold weather as it is very sheltered, gets any sun going and the rock dry’s very quickly. The new guidebook, ‘7A Max’ has a good topo of the crag.

Ivor McCourt cruising at North Berwick Law.

Ivor McCourt cruising at North Berwick Law.