This week I am based at Ballachulish. On Sunday the lads and I climbed Zig Zags before traversing Gearr Aonach and dropping back into the Glen via SCNL. The route was in good condition. Rapid transportation of snow was taking place with large areas of windslab and cornices quickly building.
We have been over in the Cairngorms for the last two days. Yesterday we visited the Southern Sector of Lurchers Crag. After descending South Gully we climbed Pinnacle Ridge. The mixed routes were in good condition being scoured and the turf well frozen.
Today, the ski road was not open. Therefore, we walked from the snowgate to Ciste Crag where we climbed a route at about III 5. A number of teams appeared behind us later in the day and enjoyed a number of different lines on the crag. The turf was frozen and after last nights weather the crag was holding a good quantity of snow.
The lads and I had a great day today in the Cairngorms climbing on Lurchers Crag. We descended South Gully before climbing Pinnacle Ridge. The conditions and weather were excellent. This section of the crag was quiet except for one other team. The other section of the crag with the ice routes was however rumoured to be very busy.
Yesterday I went to a very busy Coire an t-Sneachda. As we arrived late due to our drive from west the popular routes all had team(s) on them. Therefore we climbed a route in the Forty Thieves area. This gave a good sixty metre II/III ice pitch followed by pleasant mixed ground. The crags were white and everything was well frozen.
Today to avoid the crowds we visited Lurchers Crag. After descending South Gully we climbed Pinnacle Ridge in good conditions. We were the only climbers on the crag.
I have just had a great seven days on the mountains and rock faces of the North Wales and Scotland.
Following the Lowland Leader Award Course last Sunday I drove to North Wales to meet Andrew. We had a good three days climbing on Tremadog, in the Ogwen Valley and on Gogarth.
The majority of the time the weather was excellent allowing us to complete the following routes; Christmas Curry (Micah Eliminate), Yogi, Shadrach, Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs, Cneifon Arete, single pitch routes on Holyhead Mountain and Lighthouse Arete.
After our final route I drove North to meet the Falkirk High Tops Team. We drove to the Isle of Skye before having three good days in the Cuillin.
Emmanuelle, Gayle, Andy, John and I completed; Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Bastier, the Bhastier Tooth, Sgurr Sgumain, Sgurr Alasdair, the Cioch and the traverse of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh.
Nigel, Alec and Norrie completed; Blaven, Bruach na Frithe and Sgurr na Banachdich.
Once more Skye provided great adventures and great memories.
John, Duncan, Isobel, Roz, Sarah, Tim and I took the Corran Ferry across to Ardgour yesterday (Thursday) and climbed Pinnacle Ridge on Garbh Bheinn. This was part of a Falkirk Community Trust scrambling day.
The is a great route on good gneiss. It’s at the top end of scrambling with some of the moves on the first steep buttress feeling hard for the Moderate grade it gets in the climbing guidebook.
We had showers on the walk in and up most of the ridge. However, the cloud cleared near the summit and for the walk off down Sron a’Gharbh Choire Bhig giving excellent views out to Eigg and Rum and down to Mull.
The Falkirk High Tops Team and I visited the Lake District today. The original plan had been to visit Glencoe but with forecast torrential rain we opted to go south. This proved to be a good choice as we had dry weather all day.
We completed the classic scramble Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday Crag. The rock was dry. The crux corner is currently very green and requires care.
People often have difficulty locating this route. The best way to locate the route is to look back down into Grisedale. Directly downhill from the route is a large sheep pen which appears to be part of a wall. Just underneath the ridge is a large fan of scree.
As the guidebooks suggest, this is one of the best scrambles in the Lake District.
Down to the Lake District today with John, Gayle, Jim, Morag & Sue from Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors. We had an excellent day climbing the classic Grade 3 Scramble/Moderate Rock Climb of Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag.
The route was dry with just the odd damp hold and relatively quiet with just 3 other teams on the route during the day. The weather was cool and sunny, although at this time of year the crag is in shadow until late in the day. The autumn colours on the trees and hillsides coupled with the reflections in a very still Ullswater made for some magnificent views.