John and I have spent the last three days in the Monte Rosa Massif. We approached from Staffal (Gressoney) on Thursday after driving from Saint Gervais les Bains and made the ascent of Pyramide Vincent (4215m) in good conditions.
During Thursday night/Friday morning a serac collapse crossed the track giving access to the summits of the Monte Rosa. John and I took a different line to avoid most of the danger over the next couple of days without any problems (although most teams kept walking on the main track through the debris!). Taking the line John and I took exposure to risk is a couple of minutes in ascent.
On Friday after crossing Il Naso (4272m) we climbed the Cresta Sella to the summit of Lyskamm (4527m) before descending the East Ridge. The Cresta Sella was great fun and in good condition (the section crossing the col between the two peaks may need ice screws for protection soon).
The route on Il Naso from the Rifugio Moantova is completely different this season from how I have ever done it before. It is worth checking on the best way to go with the Guardian as it is different from the guidebooks.
Yesterday we climbed Ludwigshohe (4341m), Parrotspitze (4432m) and Signalkuppe (4554m). A number of teams turned back due to the cold and wind chill factor from the strong breeze. Big jackets and gloves are advised!
More photos on the facebook page.
Paul and Hector Skipworth and I have been out in the Monte Rosa Massif over the last couple of days. Yesterday, in poor weather we made the approach to the Rifugio Mantova. Today we climbed Pyramid Vincent (4215m) and Balmenhorn (4167m). These were Hectors first 4000m peaks aged 14. A great age to start at.
The mountains were in good condition.
Willie, Neil and I have had a great weeks mountaineering with www.frostguiding.co.uk.
We spent Sunday and Monday in the Arolla area climbing Point 2943m and the Pigne d’Arolla (3796m) visiting the Cabane des Dix on the way. The mountains were in good condition.
On Tuesday during the bad weather we made use of the day by approaching the Rifugio Quintino Sella from Staffal near Gressoney. After overnighting we traversed Il Naso (4272m) and climbed Piramide Vincent (4215m) before staying at the Rifugio Mantova.
The line on Il Naso when climbing from the Rifugio Quintino Sella is not currently that described in the British guidebooks. Rather than climbing the face on the right, it now climbs a rocky ridge which borders the left side of this face followed by a icy nose above which leads to easy ground and the summit. We used ice screws for belays on the nose.
On Thursday we climbed Balmenhorn (4167m), Ludwigshohe (4342m), Parrotspitze (4432m) and the Signalkuppe (4554m) before overnighting at the Rifugio Margherita. The mountains were in good condition.
The Rifugio Margherita is an amazing place to stay being the highest building in Europe and also having some of the best hut food in the Alps.
The weather was poor overnight on Thursday and on Friday morning with fresh snow and high winds giving poor visibility. Using compass, map and GPS we descended to the Punta Indren and then onto Gressoney.
The conditions in the Monte Rosa Massif are currently excellent with much more snow on the glaciers than at this time last year.
There are more photos on the facebook page.
Paul and I had a great nine days mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif, Mont Blanc Massif, Chaine du Bargy and the Valais with Paul, Nick, Mark, Dean and Neil who are all based in the Lincoln area. Thanks also to Kenny Grant who joined us for the last three days. We completed the following;
- 4th September. Ecole de Glace on Mer de Glace.
- 5th September. Overnight at Rifugio Mantova following crevasse rescue on the Indren Glacier.
- 6th September. Pyramid Vincent (4215m), Balmenhorn (4167m) and Corro Nero (4322m).
- 7th September. Punta Giordani (4046m).
- 8th September. Crag session at Le fayet followed by approach to the Robert Blanc Hut.
- 9th September. The brilliant Arete des Lanchettes to the summit of the Domes des Glaciers (3529m).
- 10th September. Via Ferrata at Pic Jallouvre.
- 11th September. Ice climbing on the approach to the Moiry Hut.
- 12th September. The traverse of Pigne de la Le (3396m).
Lots more photos can be seen on the facebook page.