Summits with Chris and Frost Guiding

Chris Rigg and I have been out this week with www.frostguiding.co.uk.

We met on Saturday and after walking to the Orny Hut climbed Bon Accueil on the Aiguille de la Cabane (2999m). This route climbs superb rock and by using a couple of points of aid can be climbed at Very Severe.

After staying at the hut we climbed the North West Arete of the Tete Blanche (including the final tower) and the Petite Fourche (3520m). By climbing the final tower rather than avoiding it by loose ground on the right the route warrants solid PD+.

We descended back into Switzerland via the abseil from the col near Petite Fourche. It is suggested in the guidebooks this can be completed on a 60m rope. This is incorrect. Two ropes are required.

During Mondays bad weather Chris and I travelled to Hotel Flualp. Yesterday, we climbed Rimpfishhorn (4199m) which was in Scottish winter condition following the poor weather the day before. Great preparation for when the snows arrive in Scotland in November (hopefully!).

More photos on the facebook page.

Great rock on the Aiguille de la Cabanne.

Great rock on the Aiguille de la Cabanne.

High Tops with John

John and I have had a successful week in the Alps visiting two different areas.

On Sunday we walked to the Hotel Fluhalp to overnight before climbing the Rimpfischhorn (4199m) the next day. The route was quiet and in good condition. On the facebook I have added the www.camptocamp.org topo which is useful for those doing the peak.

We walked to the Dom Hutte on Tuesday. The next morning we climbed the brilliant Festigrat to the summit of the Dom (4545m) before descending the Voie Normale. The Festigrat was in reasonably good condition. There are some sections of ice and we pitched the steeper ice section as mentioned in the guidebook. The Voie Normale was in good condition. However, the track is too close to the seracs so I put in my own line.

Yesterday we traversed the Petite Aiguille Verte (3512m) above Chamonix. The rimaye is currently climbable at a number of locations.

Lots more photos on the climbnow facebook page.

The Weisshorn from the Dom.

The Weisshorn from the Dom.

John on the summit of the Dom.

John on the summit of the Dom.

Alphubel, Couronne de Breona

A team approaching the Alphubeljoch with the Rimpfischhorn behind

A team approaching the Alphubeljoch with the Rimpfischhorn behind

I have just had another excellent three days in the Swiss Alps. On Wednesday in the company of my Pigne d’Arolla team we overnighted at the Tasch Hut. We left the Hut at 4am on Thursday morning and made the ascent of the Alphubel (4206m) via the Alphubeljoch and the South East Ridge. The crux ice nose of the South East Ridge was in excellent condition. We used a combination of buried axe and ice screw belays. Following some photos we descended the Voie Normale. The track crosses a number of crevasses and therefore the route should be descended early in the day.

A team ascending the South East Ridge of the Alphubel.

A team ascending the South East Ridge of the Alphubel.

Today the team and I traversed the Couronne de Breona (3159m) above Les Hauderes. This is a good AD ridge traverse on mostly good rock. The route currently has some snow on it and it may be worth carrying axe and crampons.

Descnding from the Couronne de Breona.

Descnding from the Couronne de Breona (the skyline in the background).