Distant view of the Matterhorn

One of the most famous mountains in the world, the Matterhorn needs no introduction. At 4478 metres it is the ninth highest of the major 4000m peaks and a great challenge for all mountaineers. The grade range of this course will be PD to AD+.

Dates: Late July, August, early September.

Ratio: 1:1 Maximum.

Who’s it for: The Matterhorn is a major undertaking so previous climbing or mountaineering experience is essential. Experience is required on terrain such as that covered in the ‘Skye Munro’s and Scrambles’, ‘Winter Mountaineering-Ridges and Gullies’, ‘Rocky Ridges and Summits in the Chamonix Area’ or ‘Barre des Ecrins’ courses. The ascent of the Matterhorn is a big day and a good level of fitness is required.

What’s includedWhat’s not included
Instruction/GuidingInsurance (essential)
Harnesses, helmetsCrampons, ice axe, boots
(can be hired in Chamonix)
Personal hut fees and valley accommodation on a half board basisAccommodation in Chamonix
Transport from Chamonix and during the courseUplift
(not normally required on this course)
Guides hut fees, lunches, uplift and accommodationPersonal lunches, drinks and drinks at huts
ClimbNow cap

Sample program

The course meets the night before in Chamonix to check/hire equipment and allow an early start the next morning.

Day 1: We leave Chamonix and drive to Saas Almagell. On arrival we make the approach to the Almageller Hut. The afternoon is spent traversing the Dri Horlini (3096m, AD). We overnight at the hut.

Day 2: This day is spent traversing the Weissmies (4017m, PD) via the SSE Ridge and WNW flank before returning to overnight in Saas Grund.

Day 3: We climb the Couronne de Breona (3159m, AD) and Clocher de la Couronne (3101m, AD) on the way to the Moiry Hut.

Day 4: From the Moiry Hut we ascend the North West Ridge of the Grand Cornier (3961m, AD) before overnighting in Zermatt.

Day 5: Approach is made to the Hornli Hut via the Zermatt lift system.

Day 6: Ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hornli Ridge and return to Chamonix.

Other possible objectives

  • Lagginhorn via the South Ridge (4010m, AD)
  • The traverse of the Portjengrat (3653m, AD+)
  • The traverse of the Aiguilles de La Le (3190m, AD)
  • The traverse of the Pigne D’Arolla and Mont Blanc de Cheillon (3869m, AD)