The early season mixed climbing conditions have been providing a good bit of sport. Euan and Paul teamed up today to climb Fallout corner Coire an Lochain VI7 and found some good verglas for positive axe placements but with little clearing needed for placing protection all in an enjoyable route.
Earlier this season we have been climbing on Belhaven V6 and Melting Pot V6 in Coire an T Sneachda.
Ben More and Stob Binnien. Colder than of late.ÃÂ Snow lyingÃÂ down to 550 meters. Heavy showers coming in all day on a brisk westerly. Ground frozen from 900m. Rime buiding up.ÃÂ WindslabÃÂ on eastern slope aspects, ridge scoured. A few small patches of neve survive.ÃÂ White-out on top.
Out on Na Gruagaichean and Binnein Mor in the Mamores today with the Falkirk high tops team. At the start of the day most major accumulations of snow were on Northerly aspects with ridges being quite heavily corniced on these aspects. During the late morning a shift in the wind led to major deposits being put down on easterly facing slopes and formation of cornices on these aspects. Spontaneous avalanches were witnessed later in the day.
A great day was had by all. It was fantastic to be back on the Mamores ridges under snow!
Conditions today took a turn for the worse with higher temperatures and a southerly wind with intermittent rain showers, The east ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn at Loch Laggan was todays target a classic Grade 1 but alas it had no snow though some good sport was found on a couloir leading to the ridge from Coire na h-Uamha which went at about the same grade.
As the day continued the snow pack continued to disappear and by the time I had made the round trip onto Beinn Teallach most of it’s summits snows had gone and the view to Aonach Mor had become browner so heres hoping for some more snow and a sharp dip in temperature.
Conditions today in Coire an T-Sneachda were reasonable though heavy rime and large amounts of unconsolidated snow on the ledges made the climbing fairly hard going with protection being interesting to find and place.
Teams on Mess of Pottage enjoying the shelter from the brisk wind were climbing Melting Pot V/7, The Message IV/6, Haston Line III/4, Jacobs Ladder I, Hidden Chimney II/3 and also a Team on Original Route IV/6 on Alladins Buttress.
Temps rose as the day progressed with rainfall in the Coire by nightfall.