A great spell of weather for climbing with Finn.
We started of on the Buachaille with North Buttress on Tuesday.
Then over to the cairngorms on wednesday for an ascent of Fluted Buttress Direct.
The Ben delivered the goods for Ice on Thursday we climbed Cental Gulley RH and Green Gulley.
Blair and Brodie borrowed a few ice screws from us for an ascent of Une Journie Ordaniere.
A short day to finish on Friday waterfall gulley provided a safe option while teams reported avalanches higher in the ciste.
There was lot of snow being transported with spindrift avalanches sweeping down harrisons climb.
A great few days thanks Finn.
A couple of weeks earlier in January I had a great time working on the British Mountain Guides winter training and even bumped into wilf on the east ridge of beinn a choarain.
Last week working on MIC training with Plas Y Brenin I met a friend of euans, Ady Williams total legend.
This last few days working with Finn have been brilliant.
Some of the routes climbed in the last few weeks.
Mega Route X
raeburns buttress intermediate gulley
Italian Right hand
Castle north gulley all ben nevis.
I found great conditions on routes in glencoe, aonach mor and rhe cairngorms but the ben is as good as Ive ever seen it, even met chamoniards on the curtian yesterday.
Lets hope it survives this turbo thaw.
With all the snow in Lochaber and the Cairngorms Finn and I went to Torridon for a few days.
We stayed in the SMC Ling hut and had great food in the Hotel Bar at Sheildaig.
The Northern Pinnacles and Poachers fall were some of the highlights.
I’m just back from tignes where there are plenty of fresh turns to be had along with some very wind affected slopes.
Some things that were good
Les couloirs du chardonnet
Le tour de charvet
Les couloirs des tufs were good in the first half of the week
The lognan above tignes val claret had great snow on it after Thursdays storm.
Lots of other classic lines being skied/ridden.
Monday evening I met up with Finn at the Kingshouse Hotel for four days of climbing.
Tuesday Fingers Ridge IV*** in a storm it was plastered in usefull ice.
Wednesday Taxus Direct IV*** a blue sky day
Thursday Point Five V**** great ice conditions on the Ben
Friday Crowberry GullyIV**** a super classic that I hadn’t climbed before.
Great conditions in North Wales gave a brilliant Christmas present with an ascent of the classic Devils Appendix VI 6 climbed on thursday with Keith Ball the route is really fat taking ice screws on demand.
Stu and Andy beat us to it and I think were the first team to climb it this season good effort guys.
The Ben is in great condition this week.
Lots of teams on N.E.B. Zero, 0.5, Good Friday, Indicator and Indicator RH and Smiths Route, I spotted a team on Orion Direct on Tuesday but it looked quite thin in Places. Two step corner has been climbed and of course green and comb gullies are popular but Diana and quick step are not quite there.
Watch out for the big wet cornices get up early and make the most of the fat ice
A quiet day on the Ben with only a few other teams out and about.
Andy Stokesbury and friends headed off to climb the Gutter IV.
Damien and climbed Gargoyle Wall VI 6 which was great a true 3 star route, protection on the 2nd pitch was hard to find as the cracks were choked with ice.
The crux cracks were clear from verglas which made for a safe, enjoyable but technical pitch of climbing.
The other 3 pitches provided thought provoking moves, all in a great nevis mixed route.
Thursday Damien and i climbed Messenger on the Mess of Pottage IV6 or V6 in the new guide book.
We found good mixed conditions i.e. neve on ledges and cracks free from verglas a fine route if a bit short.
Friday we needed more of a wilderness experience and popped over the back in a super fast time to Carn Etchachan.
We geared up at the bottom of scorpion feeling physced to be climbing a Cold Climbs Classic Patey route.
Turfy mixed on the first pitch led to the subterrenan pitch Damo did a good job but it felt harder than anything on the Messenger.
The following corner pitch was quite exciting on small footholds but good hooks.
A bit of a romp for 80m led to the sting in the tail which was fine with really useful ice in the corner and the cornice to finish was non existant.
A belter of a route.