After a delivering an Hill and Moorland Leader Training Course with John for Falkirk Outdoors over the weekend I’ve been out cragging a couple of times this week with Euan taking in sport climbing at Balgone Heughs and Myopics and trad climbing at Black Crag near Loch Ordie. There are good routes at Black Crag, but it’s worth noting that it isn’t very well travelled and care should be taken with some of the rock. We removed a couple of large dangerous blocks from our warm up route.
I’ve been climbing with Euan the past two days. On Wednesday we were at Newton Spur in the beautiful Sma’Glen in Perthshire. We climbed six good routes on the Flat Line Wall, the pick of which was probably “Ouzels of Fun” before soloing the two rightmost lines on The Sentinel. See the Facebook page for a photo of me on The Sentinel.
Today we were sport climbing at Balgone Heughs south of North Berwick Law. The crag faces north-west and is in trees, so can prove a good choice in dry hot conditions.
Ivor’s kindly sent through some better photos of today at Balgone Heughs, so there are a couple below to give a feel of the crag.
On a recommendation Euan, Ivor and I went to try out a recently bolted crag near North Berwick Law this morning. There are currently about twelve lines in the 5+ to 7b grades. I had to leave at noon, by which time we’d climbed between us Pheasant Corner, The Wasp, The Wanderer and Heuthanasia. All of these gave good, well bolted and technical climbing. There is some friable rock and it’s worth thinking about where you belay from and/or wearing a helmet. I’d guess this will clean up with traffic although the grades may take a while to settle down.
The crag faces North-West and is probably better as a summer evening venue or when North Berwick Law get’s too hot, it does happen. Despite some overnight rain and being in the trees the rock was surprisingly dry with only the lines of Ivy Wall, The Curling Pond and Mr Fox suffering from seepage; these were drying quickly whilst we were there.
There’s information about the crag and routes on UKClimbing. The information asks climbers to park at The Law car park to keep the good will of the land owner, additionally some of the lines are closed projects and both of these things should be respected. It’s a twenty minute walk from the car park and the walk was a little muddy after the rain. Thanks to the folk who’ve put in the time and effort to bolt these lines, it’s a good addition to the area.