The First 4000ers of the Season

This past week I have been with Frost Guiding who are based in Evolene.

We began the week on Sunday by completing an Ecole de Glace and crevasse rescue session on the Ferpecle Glacier before walking to the Tracuit Hut on Monday and climbing the Bishorn (4153m) on Tuesday. The mountain was in good condition with a track in the glacier to the summit. The new Tracuit Hut is very comfortable.

On Wednesday we approached the Gnifetti Hut from the Gressoney valley. We had hoped to climb Lyskamm the next day but had to abandon this plan due to very high winds that were not forecast.

Instead, we climbed II Naso (4272m) and Punta Giordani (4046m). II Naso was in good condition. The route from Punta Indren to Punta Giordani is drying out very fast in the current heatwave and may not be in safe condition for much longer.

Yesterday, we completed the Clocher de la Couronne (3101m). This mountain provides an excellent rock traverse and can be accessed from the Moiry Dam.

Of note, this season I have already witnessed more significant rockfall than I did during the whole of last season. This problem will continue as long as the current heatwave continues.

The Zinalrothorn from the Tracuit Hut.

The Zinalrothorn from the Tracuit Hut.

Arolla and Moiry Valleys

Jos on the Aiguille de la Le.

Jos on the Aiguille de la Le.

Helen and Jos on the Cheilon traverse.

Helen and Jos on the Cheilon traverse.

This past week I have been over in Evolene with Martin Moran Mountaineering. Helen, Jos and I had a successful week climbing lots of great terrain. We began our week on Sunday with an Ecole de Glace session on the Ferpecle Glacier before an early start on Monday morning allowed us to complete the Petits Dent de Veisivi (3184m). This is an excellent rock peak and provides routes of PD+ and AD-. It is never busy though due to the steep walk in.

With a good forecast for Wednesday, we travelled to Cabane DIx on Tuesday. On the way, we traversed Point 2940m which is a very pleasant rock ridge. The weather was excellent on Wednesday which allowed us to traverse Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m). The AD ridge was in great condition. However, the Voie Normal which we descended is in difficult condition at the moment due to there being no track and the large amounts of snow this summer creating steep cornices on the ridge.

On Thursday we travelled to the Moiry Hut and on the way traversed the Clocher de la Couronne (3101m). This is an excellent rock peak which can easily be climbed on the way to or from the hut. The weather on Friday was again good. This allowed us to traverse the Aiguille de la Le (3179m). This AD rock ridge is usually quiet and gives continual interest. The British guidebook suggests it is short which is incorrect. From the Moiry Hut to the car park will take around 6 to 7 hours, not 3 as suggested by the guidebook.

Lots more photos on the climbnow facebook page.