This week I have been out with David, Mirsie, Mark, Micheal and Jack on behalf of Frost Guiding. We climbed the following;
- Pointe 2940 above the Pas de Chèvre.
- Le Serpentine (3789m) from the Col de la Serpentine in Scottish winter conditions. We accessed the mountain from the Dix Hut. Th conditions on the glacier were good.
- Pointe du Pas de Chèvre (2991m).
- The Dufourspitze (4634m). The conditions were good on the mountain.
Following our retreat from the Plan de Bertol, the lads from St. James School, the www.frostguiding.co.uk team and I had a great day above Arolla on Wednesday. We climbed the Pointe du Pas de Chevres and traversed Point 2940m under mostly blue skies. These ridges provide fun scrambles that are rarely busy.
The weather from early evening Wednesday and through the whole of yesterday and last night has been very, very poor with 30cm of new snow at 2800m and I would suspect significantly more higher than this.
Due to this we went to the climbing wall yesterday. Today we attempted to go to the Saas Valley but unfortunately could not get up the road due to a significant landslide. Not to be put off, we travelled to Fiesch before having a fun day in the snow while ascending the Eggishorn.
Last week, Andy, Rob and I had a quick visit to the Alps. Even though the weather was poor over the three days we still managed to climb; Pointe du Pas de Chevres (2991m) and Pointe 2940m (both accessed from the Pas de Chevres in the Arolla area) followed by Pigne de la Le (3396m, Moiry Valley). We then had a days cragging at Le Fayet.
The recent weather in the Alps will make climbing high rock ridges very difficult.
Today I have been out with the Falkirk High Tops Team. Iona, Barbara, Ivor, John and I had a great day at the Fastcastle and Souter sea cliffs. We climbed a number of single and multi pitch routes. The rock was dry and clean. Currently there are no problems with sea birds.
More photos on the facebook page.
Again this week I have been based out of Evolene with Martin Moran Mountaineering (www.moran-mountain.co.uk).
Following an Ecole de Glace session on the Glacier Ferpecle on Sunday, Mark, Monica and I had a hut trip from Monday to Tuesday.
On the way to the Cabane des DIx above Arolla on Monday we climbed the Pointe du Pas de Chevres (2991m) before returning to the Pas de Chevres and traversing the Col de Riedmatten. The ladders on the Pas de Chevres remain closed and the Col de Riedmatten is the only option.
The weather on Tuesday was very poor. In full Scottish winter conditions we did however manage to climb La Luette (3548m) before returning to the valley. We climbed the ridge route rather than the glacial route as this was a safer option in the conditions we had.
Monica joined another team for the rest of the week while Mark and I headed to the Saas Valley. On Wednesday we made the ascent to the Mischabel Hutte before climbing the Ulrischhorn (3925m) on Thursday morning during a break in the weather. The Ulrischhorn was in excellent condition. After returning to the valley we completed the approach to the Weissmieshutte to overnight.
Today we completed the Sudkante on the Jegihorn (3206m). Despite all the recent bad weather the rock was perfectly dry.
Another great week in the Alps completed. A short video on the climbnow facebook page shows the current conditions on the Lenspitze and the Nadelhorn.