Paul and I had a great nine days mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif, Mont Blanc Massif, Chaine du Bargy and the Valais with Paul, Nick, Mark, Dean and Neil who are all based in the Lincoln area. Thanks also to Kenny Grant who joined us for the last three days. We completed the following;
- 4th September. Ecole de Glace on Mer de Glace.
- 5th September. Overnight at Rifugio Mantova following crevasse rescue on the Indren Glacier.
- 6th September. Pyramid Vincent (4215m), Balmenhorn (4167m) and Corro Nero (4322m).
- 7th September. Punta Giordani (4046m).
- 8th September. Crag session at Le fayet followed by approach to the Robert Blanc Hut.
- 9th September. The brilliant Arete des Lanchettes to the summit of the Domes des Glaciers (3529m).
- 10th September. Via Ferrata at Pic Jallouvre.
- 11th September. Ice climbing on the approach to the Moiry Hut.
- 12th September. The traverse of Pigne de la Le (3396m).
Lots more photos can be seen on the facebook page.
This past week I have been with Frost Guiding who are based in Evolene.
We began the week on Sunday by completing an Ecole de Glace and crevasse rescue session on the Ferpecle Glacier before walking to the Tracuit Hut on Monday and climbing the Bishorn (4153m) on Tuesday. The mountain was in good condition with a track in the glacier to the summit. The new Tracuit Hut is very comfortable.
On Wednesday we approached the Gnifetti Hut from the Gressoney valley. We had hoped to climb Lyskamm the next day but had to abandon this plan due to very high winds that were not forecast.
Instead, we climbed II Naso (4272m) and Punta Giordani (4046m). II Naso was in good condition. The route from Punta Indren to Punta Giordani is drying out very fast in the current heatwave and may not be in safe condition for much longer.
Yesterday, we completed the Clocher de la Couronne (3101m). This mountain provides an excellent rock traverse and can be accessed from the Moiry Dam.
Of note, this season I have already witnessed more significant rockfall than I did during the whole of last season. This problem will continue as long as the current heatwave continues.