I got back late yesterday from four days based at Elphin in North-West Scotland with a Falkirk Community Trust Outdoors walking and mountaineering team of John, Craig, Gillian, Gillian, Linda, Neil, Olesya and Ruby. It was billed as a winter trip, but there are currently only small amounts of snow in the area mostly on north and east facing aspects above 800m in significant collection features and around coire rims.
We had generally dry conditions with moderate to strong warm south-east to south-west winds. This meant dry rock away from major seepage lines and we made the most of the distinctly summer conditions.
On Thursday a combined group did the classic east to west scramble traverse of Stac Pollaidh to the true west top after driving up from Falkirk. On Friday the mountaineers climbed Lurgainn Edge on Cul Beag including the avoidable Difficult crux at the top, whilst the walkers traversed Cul Beag and Cul Mor covering some rough and remote country and a lot of ascent. On a windy Saturday we headed further north with the mountaineers climbing Dionard Rib on Cranstackie, which gave a very good ascent on excellent rough gneiss, and the walkers visiting Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh (the most northerly Corbett). On Sunday a team had a half day at the Reiff sea cliffs climbing routes on The Pinnacle and Pinnacle Walls area and Craig and Ruby completed an excellent round of Beinn an Eoin. All in all a great trip in good company to an incredibly beautiful area.
I’m just back from a three day Falkirk Community Trust climbing and walking trip to the North-West of Scotland. We were based at the Inchnadamph hostel and arrived on Monday to showery conditions. The walkers opted for an ascent of Glas Bheinn from the hostel. The climbers decided on an adventurous day to make the most of the conditions and headed for the rarely climbed short sea stack called the Shark’s Tooth, which is off the sea-cliffs between Achnahaird Bay and Rubha Coigeach. We approached and returned via coasteering and swimming and climbed the South-East arête in wet suits and big boots.
On Tuesday the forecast was better and the walkers made for Suilven, whilst the climbers went to the Old Man of Stoer climbing this classic sea stack via the Original Route and Diamond Face Route.
Today the walkers traversed Cul Beag whilst the climbers headed up to Stac Pollaidh and climbed the excellent Summer Isle’s Arete Direct and November Groove with both teams taking in the western summit.
Jen and I are back from a few days up North. After staying with friends in Inverness on Thursday we headed to Achnasheen on Friday and walked up Fionn Bheinn, returning via the coire rims of Toll Mor and Toll Beag. There was steady rain for the early part of the day and cloud coming and going.
We then stayed in the excellent Kylesku Hotel before heading up Quinag on Saturday and taking in Spidean Coinich, Sail Gorm and Sail Gharbh. The weather was unfortunately worse than forecast, with cloud for most of the day. However, we had a good walk on an excellent hill with the occasional glimpse of the stunning views.
On Sunday we took in Cul Mor on the way back South. This time the weather was better than originally forecast with just the odd heavy rain and hail shower, but lots of sunshine. After taking in the summit we wandered around to Creag nan Calman, which gave great views, before descending it’s East ridge and across the coire to regain the outward route on Meallan Diomhain. Three great days in beautiful countryside with excellent hospitality.
The last four days I’ve been based near Braemore Junction with Alex and Doug. The plan was for some classic winter ridge traverses and some ice climbing. Storm Gertrude certainly lived up to the last four letters of her name and we had to duck and dive a bit.
Originally Thursday looked like the best forecast for the area, although it wasn’t great with fairly high winds and snow/rain, so we decided to have a look at the traverse of An Teallach. Strong winds and driving spindrift on Sail Liath meant we nipped around the back and traversed before climbing a good Grade II gully to regain the ridge near the end of the pinnacles. We then carried on along the ridge over Sgurr Fiona and Bidein a Ghlas Thuill before taking the path from the col with Sron a’Coire to avoid any significant river crossings as the burns were in spate.
The winds were forecast very high on Friday, but with a distinct lull in the afternoon and better weather further East, so we decided on a post noon start in to Coire an t-Sneachda in the Cairngorms. The forecast lull never seemed to arrive and we ended up climbing The Slant and descending in pretty wild conditions, with gusts requiring us to get an ice axe in and lie down until they passed through.
The forecast had worsened for Saturday, with winds of 40 to 50mph predicted for sea level in Ullapool and fairly constant precipitation. We decided on a rest day and spent the morning in the gear shop and cafes in Ullapool, although I did venture out in to the Fannichs to check out a low crag in the afternoon.
Today the winds were finally down, precipitation was showers only and the freezing level was 300 to 400m. With one eye on Alex’s flight time from Inverness we needed a short day and opted for the East to West winter traverse of Stac Pollaidh. This gave an excellent day. Information is surprisingly sparse on this route. We followed the description from the Highland Scrambles North book, which is for summer scrambling. There was soft snow from 300m, the turf was well frozen and we took in two main cruxes. The first crux was leaving the notch just after the eastern summit and the second was the Difficult vertical tower before the true western summit, which I climbed by a rising rightwards turfy traverse and Alex and Doug climbed direct with gloves on snowy rock and a rope above them. We then returned to the col, abseiling around the vertical tower on the way, and descended to the north. For what it’s worth doing the traverse this way and in those conditions felt about Grade III. We had some snow showers and cloud, but also great views to the surrounding hills, the Summer Isles and the Western Isles.
There was fresh snow down to road level for pretty much all the drive back as far as Perth, although tomorrow’s weather will change things considerably.
I’ll add some more photos to the Climbnow Facebook page tomorrow.